Thanking readers in advance for your ideas and recommendations.I am a new user of ILC's - and hopefully macro photography for butterflies and insects. Canon R7 RF 18-150 kit lens / RF 100-400.I've been using this macro photographers direction on macro photography in general as well as lens and flash recommendations. A good teacher.https://www.youtube.com/@MicaelWidell/featuredRecommendation: Laowa 60 mm 2X magnification, manual focus lens $400.https://www.venuslens.net/product/laowa-60mm-f2/ref/708/I would like to know if readers agree with the idea of a manual focus macro lens or prefer an autofocus lens? As far as ease of use, or a learning curve does it matter if you have a 2X magnification lens or 1X magnification.He also recommends: MEIKE MK-320C Speedlite Flash TTL $70https://amz.run/6Vb8I'll also get an inexpensive difuser.As a beginner I was also thinking of the starting with a Raynox DCR 250 clip-on macro/magnifier - $70If anyone has recommendation on a good value/quality used macro lens for the R7 I would be greatful.Thank you.  EvP.S. Submitted with sadness in my heart - and ever appreciative of DPR citizens.

Start with the raynox. It will give you an idea if it is a subject you can get on with, and it will also end up as a great tool to have in your bag in the future.As for lenses, most macro lenses are excellent. I love my EF-S 60 as a general walk around macro lens for instance. When you go shorter the downside can be light as you will be closer hence the need for a flash. So focal length you need to decide whether you are going to be a natural light shooter or want to get into the realms of flash. If you want to shoot natural light then 100mm is probably the better option but for flash I find shorter focal lengths to be lots of fun.When you pick a lens be sure it it internal focussing as you really don’t want the lens extending at all and disturbing your subject. Also don’t worry too much about working distance with live subjects such as insects if that is your chosen target. With practice you quickly learn how to work with them and can get the shots. Obviously exceptions apply where dangerous beasties are concerned.

Use bith the RF100/2.8L IS and the RF35/1.8IS Macros on the R7. Both are great for thier respective purpose!

I’v often preferred good manual focus macro lenses. Good image quality for a nice price. Laowa offers some great option, but also Samyang.Few things to consider though. 1. Auto aperture makes things more/easier controlable. Not all MF macro lenses offer that. 2. Macro is often done using a tripod. Longer FL lenses might take advantage of a tripod collar (stability). 3. The R7 has a nice focus stack option. Maybe you should consider an AF lens as well for using this option. The EF-S 60mm, EF 100mm L IS support this option. Sandor.

maarensv wrote:I’v often preferred good manual focus macro lenses. Good image quality for a nice price. Laowa offers some great option, but also Samyang.Few things to consider though. 1. Auto aperture makes things more/easier controlable. Not all MF macro lenses offer that. 2. Macro is often done using a tripod. Longer FL lenses might take advantage of a tripod collar (stability). 3. The R7 has a nice focus stack option. Maybe you should consider an AF lens as well for using this option. The EF-S 60mm, EF 100mm L IS support this option. Sandor.Thank you Sandor.  I meant to ask about the R7's focus stacking option and how that played into using a particular type of macro lens.I didn't know why or why not an auto focus lens should be considered. Thanks.I'll keep in mind the Samyang.What I'm going to do for now - copy/paste these replies into a doc so I'll have them for reference.  I'm going to start as suggested with a Raynox DCR 250 and see how I get on. Something tells me this isn't as easy as just focus and shoot.As far as a tripod - I understand, but for me its out of the question - bad back, can't carry it around.  A light/compact kit is what I'm after for handholding.Ev

Distinctly Average wrote:Start with the raynox. It will give you an idea if it is a subject you can get on with, and it will also end up as a great tool to have in your bag in the future.As for lenses, most macro lenses are excellent. I love my EF-S 60 as a general walk around macro lens for instance. When you go shorter the downside can be light as you will be closer hence the need for a flash. So focal length you need to decide whether you are going to be a natural light shooter or want to get into the realms of flash. If you want to shoot natural light then 100mm is probably the better option but for flash I find shorter focal lengths to be lots of fun.When you pick a lens be sure it it internal focussing as you really don’t want the lens extending at all and disturbing your subject. Also don’t worry too much about working distance with live subjects such as insects if that is your chosen target. With practice you quickly learn how to work with them and can get the shots. Obviously exceptions apply where dangerous beasties are concerned.Thanks very much - a lot of very helpful info. in your reply. I'll be saving it for future reference.Your idea of the raynox as a start is what I'm going to go with. I could also use this on my Nikon P950 a superzoom.  It is critical to see as you noted if I can get on with macro shooting comfortably.Ev

You have a number of choices for a true macro lens (at least 1/2 life size or greater). The dedicated RF macro lenses, 85mm, 100mm, 35mm F1.8. Expensive but you will be able to do in camera focusing-stacking with these in the R7. You might want to consider the TTartisans 40mm F2.8 manual focus for RF. This is a 1:1 lens, all metal construction, and is very sharp confirmed by lens reviews. I have this lens but in the EF-M mount for my M6 and can attest to its very high optical quality. And it is only $99 at B&H! I find for macro work I am almost always using manual focus. You could not do in-camera focusing stacking with this lens however. Another option is an EF mount macro lens with the EF-RF adapter.

p900learner wrote:Thanking readers in advance for your ideas and recommendations.I am a new user of ILC's - and hopefully macro photography for butterflies and insects. Canon R7 RF 18-150 kit lens / RF 100-400.I've been using this macro photographers direction on macro photography in general as well as lens and flash recommendations. A good teacher.https://www.youtube.com/@MicaelWidell/featuredMicael is a lovely guy, I've watched lots of his videos.Recommendation: Laowa 60 mm 2X magnification, manual focus lens $400.https://www.venuslens.net/product/laowa-60mm-f2/ref/708/I would like to know if readers agree with the idea of a manual focus macro lens or prefer an autofocus lens? As far as ease of use, or a learning curve does it matter if you have a 2X magnification lens or 1X magnification.Very high magnification macro is more challenging, but it's no problem to pick slightly less ambitious subjects and shoot a 2x lens at 1x or even less while you are building up your skills. So from that point of view it's fine.I'd be slightly more concerned about the lack of AF for your one and only macro lens. You will have read that manual focus is often used for macro and this is true, but it's often convenient - and quick - to use AF to get the initial focus, then fine-tune manually, often by moving the whole camera. Also if your subject is not perfectly still, AF in Servo mode can be very useful. Think bees on flower heads. Last but not least, you need AF if you're going to use the R7's built-in focus bracketing. It's an advanced technique but potentially very useful.For this and other reasons I'd suggest an EF 100/2.8L IS Macro, which can be bought used for not much more than the Laowa.He also recommends: MEIKE MK-320C Speedlite Flash TTL $70https://amz.run/6Vb8I definitely disagree with this. A conventional full size Speedlite is much more practical when using a diffuser, both for physically fitting the diffuser and also having enough power. I have Canon Speedlites but I use them for other purposes including paid work so the economics are different. If you want something a bit more economical, Godox flashes are recommended by many. Be sure to choose one with dedicated Canon ETTL-II support. That way you can choose auto or manual according to the circumstances.I'll also get an inexpensive difuser.Yes. The Lastolite Ezybox Micro is very good, but there are much cheaper equivalents on Amazon and elsewhere which work equally well.As a beginner I was also thinking of the starting with a Raynox DCR 250 clip-on macro/magnifier - $70This is a good way to increase the magnification of a 1:1 macro lens for the tiniest subjects. One tip is to use a step-down ring instead of the clip provided. The Raynox 150 and 250 have a standard 43 mm thread on the back so for the 100L macro you would need a 67-43 step-down. You'll probably need to do this in two steps, such as 67-58 then 58-43. It takes a little longer to fit, but the result is much more secure and smaller - which can be a real benefit for many subjects.If anyone has recommendation on a good value/quality used macro lens for the R7 I would be greatful.As above.Thank you. EvP.S. Submitted with sadness in my heart - and ever appreciative of DPR citizens.Hear hear.

Rather than the Laowa 60mm, you should consider the Laowa 65mm. It has recently been released for the RF mount. It is specifically designed for APS-C sensors. In my experience is is well-built, very sharp, has very little in the way of optical aberrations, is very light and compact, and focuses to 2:1 magnification. I have used it extensively with the EOS M6ii which has a similar sensor to the R7.

natrpixvet wrote:You have a number of choices for a true macro lens (at least 1/2 life size or greater). The dedicated RF macro lenses, 85mm, 100mm, 35mm F1.8. Expensive but you will be able to do in camera focusing-stacking with these in the R7. You might want to consider the TTartisans 40mm F2.8 manual focus for RF. This is a 1:1 lens, all metal construction, and is very sharp confirmed by lens reviews. I have this lens but in the EF-M mount for my M6 and can attest to its very high optical quality. And it is only $99 at B&H! I find for macro work I am almost always using manual focus. You could not do in-camera focusing stacking with this lens however. Another option is an EF mount macro lens with the EF-RF adapter.Thanks very much - I have your suggestions marked down. Fwiw, I would like to avoid adapters - I don't have the expertist to know if they are good or bad - for me just another thing to buy and/or keep up with.Ev

Steve Balcombe wrote:p900learner wrote:Thanking readers in advance for your ideas and recommendations.I am a new user of ILC's - and hopefully macro photography for butterflies and insects. Canon R7 RF 18-150 kit lens / RF 100-400.I've been using this macro photographers direction on macro photography in general as well as lens and flash recommendations. A good teacher.https://www.youtube.com/@MicaelWidell/featuredMicael is a lovely guy, I've watched lots of his videos.Recommendation: Laowa 60 mm 2X magnification, manual focus lens $400.https://www.venuslens.net/product/laowa-60mm-f2/ref/708/I would like to know if readers agree with the idea of a manual focus macro lens or prefer an autofocus lens? As far as ease of use, or a learning curve does it matter if you have a 2X magnification lens or 1X magnification.Very high magnification macro is more challenging, but it's no problem to pick slightly less ambitious subjects and shoot a 2x lens at 1x or even less while you are building up your skills. So from that point of view it's fine.Helpful to know.  Thanks.I'd be slightly more concerned about the lack of AF for your one and only macro lens. You will have read that manual focus is often used for macro and this is true, but it's often convenient - and quick - to use AF to get the initial focus, then fine-tune manually, often by moving the whole camera. Also if your subject is not perfectly still, AF in Servo mode can be very useful. Think bees on flower heads. Last but not least, you need AF if you're going to use the R7's built-in focus bracketing. It's an advanced technique but potentially very useful.For this and other reasons I'd suggest an EF 100/2.8L IS Macro, which can be bought used for not much more than the Laowa.So appreciative of this information and your recommendation. I didn't know any of this.He also recommends: MEIKE MK-320C Speedlite Flash TTL $70https://amz.run/6Vb8I definitely disagree with this. A conventional full size Speedlite is much more practical when using a diffuser, both for physically fitting the diffuser and also having enough power. I have Canon Speedlites but I use them for other purposes including paid work so the economics are different. If you want something a bit more economical, Godox flashes are recommended by many. Be sure to choose one with dedicated Canon ETTL-II support. That way you can choose auto or manual according to the circumstances.I'll check out the Godox flashes and I have the type marked down.I'll also get an inexpensive difuser.Yes. The Lastolite Ezybox Micro is very good, but there are much cheaper equivalents on Amazon and elsewhere which work equally well.As a beginner I was also thinking of the starting with a Raynox DCR 250 clip-on macro/magnifier - $70This is a good way to increase the magnification of a 1:1 macro lens for the tiniest subjects. One tip is to use a step-down ring instead of the clip provided. The Raynox 150 and 250 have a standard 43 mm thread on the back so for the 100L macro you would need a 67-43 step-down. You'll probably need to do this in two steps, such as 67-58 then 58-43. It takes a little longer to fit, but the result is much more secure and smaller - which can be a real benefit for many subjects.I'll look into the idea of step-down rings to use with the Raynox.If anyone has recommendation on a good value/quality used macro lens for the R7 I would be greatful.As above.Thank you. EvP.S. Submitted with sadness in my heart - and ever appreciative of DPR citizens.Hear hear.And still thinking about the loss of DRP.Ev

Brian Slater wrote:Rather than the Laowa 60mm, you should consider the Laowa 65mm. It has recently been released for the RF mount. It is specifically designed for APS-C sensors. In my experience is is well-built, very sharp, has very little in the way of optical aberrations, is very light and compact, and focuses to 2:1 magnification. I have used it extensively with the EOS M6ii which has a similar sensor to the R7.Very good to know Brian - thank you. From the Michael Widell tutorials I felt like the Laowa lens line gave you a good value - I've marked the 65mm RF mount one down.Ev