how to handle 600d with 100-400 lens attached

kaybsteve

hi all, new here. just got my 600d and 100-400L. the lens is beautiful and have some weight compared to the cam body. when the lens is attached is one suppose to (1) hold the whole assembly by the camera or (2) hold the lens body? reason i asked...can the camera body take the weight of the lens that is screwed onto it?i got the 1.4x III as well as i reckon 400x1.6 may not be far enough to shoot small birds or have enough reach. i would expect iq deterioration but can anyone share, by how much...noticeable or negligible. i have yet to use it as i am still going through the manual. pictures i've seen taken with the 100-400L is very nice and sharp. can't wait to try them outthanks.


Olga Johnson

new_newbiewrote:hi all, new here. just got my 600d and 100-400L. the lens is beautiful and have some weight compared to the cam body. when the lens is attached is one suppose to (1) hold the whole assembly by the camera or (2) hold the lens body? reason i asked...can the camera body take the weight of the lens that is screwed onto it?Yes, the camera can take the lens weight. To shoot you have to support the lens with your left hand while handling the camera with the right. Of course that's if you're using the viewfinder.I have found it much easier to hold a Rebel + 100-400L lens if you add the battery grip to the Rebel. It balances a lot easier.i got the 1.4x III as well as i reckon 400x1.6 may not be far enough to shoot small birds or have enough reach. i would expect iq deterioration but can anyone share, by how much...noticeable or negligible. i have yet to use it as i am still going through the manual. pictures i've seen taken with the 100-400L is very nice and sharp. can't wait to try them outThe lens will not autofocus with the Canon TC on the 600D. It would only autofocus with the 1D series cameras.


CityLights

With the camera attached to the lens, take hold of the lens from the under side at about the mid point with your left hand. Though, heavy over a few minutes, you should be able to support both the camera and lens weight with just that one hand. Use the right hand to lightly grip and steady the camera with finger on the shutter button.Don't worry too much about the weight of the lens on the camera mount. The camera is designed to take the weight. If you are in doubt, take a look at this picture:http://www.pbase.com/dadas115/image/31795237Take a look in this gallery. There are multiple pictures showing good technique for holding a big lens and camera:http://www.pbase.com/dadas115/equipmentThat is an original digital rebel 300D and a much heavier lens than the 100-400.Regarding how far away the subject can be and still get a good picture... you are going to have to experiment and figure that one out. It is related to your personal tolerance for image degredation, equipment capabilities, and your technique.With my 450D and 400mm f/5.6 L, I need the bird to cover about 1/4 of the frame to get a good quality 8x10 print. For example, see this picture. The bird in the center of the frame is as it looked through the viewfinder. The bird on the right hand side is the same bird shown as a 100% crop. The bird in the center of the frame is somewhat less than 1/4 of the full frame and the 100% crop shows some image degredation.


kevindar

I have removed the the tripod collar off of mine. the lens mount should have no problem carrying it. when shooting I always support the lens as one would expect.the lens will not autofocus with your extender on your body. I am using a kenko 1.4x with convered pin to not report the f stop, and it autofocuses reasonably well on 5d2, and in good light and good contrast ok on 60d.here is my link to 100% crops on f 8 and f11 on 5d2 and 60d. it does reasonably well http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1007898 -- http://www.flickr.com/photsos/11731152@N00/


Bigbob Irwin

I leave the colar on my 100-400 and if I am going on a long walk I mount the lens on a monopod and put this over my shoulderas I find this less tireing than carrying by hand also I then have the monopod for low light shots or when walking on rough ground I use the monopod as a walking stick. IS is fine to be left on when mounting on the pod.


dswcamera

Best leverage, weight bearing & stablility. Exceptions to this are tele lenses that change length when focusing. Dan -- 'A bad idea in search of a good cause is.. just a bad idea' ... me


kaybsteve

thanks to all of you for your kind guidance.i am inclined to just leave the lens attached to the body all the time as i do not have intentions (right now) to get a walk around lens like the 15-85 is usm (which i was told is a good one to get)...my s95 will take care of shots 100mm below (cannot compare to dslr but for the portability and good IQ, should be good enough).also, i reckon detaching and attaching only invites dust to creep in at both ends...or am i wrong? thanks once again !:)


fatman_br

If you don't need to change the lens, leave it. Less dust is always better. -- Fabio Leoni, from Brazil My galleries: http://picasaweb.google.com/Fabio.jose.leoni http://www.flickr.com/photos/9741796@N05/ http://www.pixels-urbanos.blogspot.com


imqqmi

new_newbiewrote:hi all, new here. just got my 600d and 100-400L. the lens is beautiful and have some weight compared to the cam body. when the lens is attached is one suppose to (1) hold the whole assembly by the camera or (2) hold the lens body? reason i asked...can the camera body take the weight of the lens that is screwed onto it?Best way to handle is by getting an R-Strap. With the FastenR you attach the strap to the lens mount and carry the whole thing upside down on the hip, with the strap across the chest. It's very comfortable to carry all day.When you hold the camera to your face, the camera and lens tend to rotate down ward from the point of the left side of the camera. If you press it against your face you can balance it out a little so there's not much torsion force from the grip on your wrist, which can be painful after a days shooting (or even quicker if you're not used to the weight). Getting a grip will balance the camera better.i got the 1.4x III as well as i reckon 400x1.6 may not be far enough to shoot small birds or have enough reach. i would expect iq deterioration but can anyone share, by how much...noticeable or negligible. i have yet to use it as i am still going through the manual. pictures i've seen taken with the 100-400L is very nice and sharp. can't wait to try them outYou can tape the contact pins in the lens mount to be able to use autofocus. More often than not, the outer AF points work better than the center one.Have fun with your 100-400L, it's an excellent lens and will last many camera bodies7D +100-400L


kaybsteve

thanks, your pic with the extender looks very good. i'm not sure if taping the connecting pins would be a good idea. why wouldn't canon know and let it be this way?i looked at the youtube reviews on r-strap and looks cool but i just worry that the screw may become loose... how do you find yours? is there a locking mechanism to prevent the screw from becoming loose?thanks.


CityLights

thanks, your pic with the extender looks very good. i'm not sure if taping the connecting pins would be a good idea. why wouldn't canon know and let it be this way?The connection pins are what tells the camera that a TC is connected. When you tape the pins, the camera just thinks that only the lens is attached.Canon knows this, so does other TC manufacturers. You can actually get TC's from 3rd party manufacturers that don't have the pins. I purchased my TC without the pins for just that reason.Taping the pins is just to fool the camera into thinking that there is no TC attached and foolling it into trying to autofocus. In good light it will autofocus just fine. In poor light, it will not.


kaybsteve

many thanks!having the pins taped, is the auto focusing sharp and there is no need to make exposure adjustments?This is what I gathered in dpreview on the new extenders:-"To facilitate the accurate transfer of imaging data between the lens and camera body, both models feature an integrated processor which ensures all focusing, metering and ID information is available – allowing the photographer to capture crisp, well-exposed images. When combined with the latest range of premium Canon L-series lenses, these extenders enable higher AF accuracy compared to previous generations, ensuring professionals achieve perfectly sharp shots, even when capturing moving subjects."does it mean that there is a micro processor in the extender? i thought that the auto-focusing is in the camera? sorry i asked many questions, new to all thesethanks.


guinness2

new_newbiewrote:hi all, new here. just got my 600d and 100-400L. the lens is beautiful and have some weight compared to the cam body. when the lens is attached is one suppose to (1) hold the whole assembly by the camera or (2) hold the lens body? reason i asked...can the camera body take the weight of the lens that is screwed onto it?I second the battery grip (otherwise it might be inconvenient), maybe with E1 handstrap, or at least with camdapter plate and handstrap. Check also imqqmi's threads for Blackrapid R-strap (shoulder strap)Without BG, I would carry or it holding the lens. When aiming, the same, support the weight with left hand, the pump way it zooms is great for that !i got the 1.4x III as well as i reckon 400x1.6 may not be far enough to shoot small birds or have enough reach. i would expect iq deterioration but can anyone share, by how much...noticeable or negligible. i have yet to use it as i am still going through the manual. pictures i've seen taken with the 100-400L is very nice and sharp.I was told in a store, that MkIII is is much better, but at most on 2.8 lenses.can't wait to try them outTell me, mine is in shelf waiting for my birthday end Maythanks.


guinness2

I mean: R-strap is coupled to the LENS tripod mount , that's why. But I found now, that imqqmi already posted, sorry to double


guinness2

fatman_brwrote:If you don't need to change the lens, leave it. Less dust is always better. --On the other side, if you will have a reason (2nd lens), don't be shy and change it. Does your car stay in garage, when rainy ?


Narcosynthesis

The most stably way to hold an SLR in general is to hold the grip in your right hand, using your left to support the weight of the lens and allowing you to control the zoom and focus rings.You do often see newcomers to SLR's holding the camera like a P&S holding the body either side of the lens, which will make it quite a lot harder to control the lens, and with anything larger than a kit lens will have the camera unbalanced and nose heavy without the support under the lens.For comfort carrying your camera I would also look to a strap like the r-strap for carrying it for any length - the lens mount is more than strong enough to hold it safely, but it leaves the camera hanging awkwardly, a strap like the r-strap mounts to the lenses tripod foot and balances everything much better when over a shoulder or similar. In terms of security, it is no different from a tripod foot - so check it every so often to make sure it is tight and you are good to go.As for switching lenses, do whatever is easiest for you - I swap lenses regularly, which does mean I have to clean the camera every so often to remove dust, but it is really a pretty easy task if you take your time and are careful. I guess it just depends if the bother of switching lenses is worth the difference in quality, or you are happy using your compact to save faffing with lenses. -- http://www.flickr.com/photos/narcosynthesis http://www.illaname.deviantart.com


CityLights

having the pins taped, is the auto focusing sharp and there is no need to make exposure adjustments?If the camera tries to focus and achieves focus confirmation, the focus is sharp. The question is, "does the lens transmit enough light for the autofocus sensors to work?" In bright light, yes they do, and the picture is sharp. In dim light, no they don't, and the camera never achieves focus confirmation.Because the camera metering is "through the lens" there is no need to make exposure adjustments with pins taped.This is what I gathered in dpreview on the new extenders:-"To facilitate the accurate transfer of imaging data between the lens and camera body, both models feature an integrated processor which ensures all focusing, metering and ID information is available – allowing the photographer to capture crisp, well-exposed images. When combined with the latest range of premium Canon L-series lenses, these extenders enable higher AF accuracy compared to previous generations, ensuring professionals achieve perfectly sharp shots, even when capturing moving subjects."That description applies to all canon lenses including extenders. The newest lenses (and the newest extenders) have an upgraded processor that supposedly do all those things better.does it mean that there is a micro processor in the extender? i thought that the auto-focusing is in the camera? sorry i asked many questions, new to all theseThere is a micro processor in every lens, including the extender. By taping the pins, you are disabling the micro processor in the extender and thereby only using the one in the lens. With the pins taped, the camera simply does not know that an extender is attached. With the pins not taped, the camera will "listen" to both the lens and extender.You are right that the autofocus is in the camera. Communication between the camera and lens goes something like this:With TC:Camera: What are you? Lens: I am canon 100-400 f/5.6 L Lens: I am Canon 1.4x ExtenderCamera: Oh, crap my programming will not allow autofocus to function. If this photog wants to shoot he is going to have to do that Manual focus. Lens: RIGHT!WITHOUT TC (OR with pins Taped)Camera: What are you? Lens: I am canon 100-400 f/5.6 L Camera: Move Focus 6 deg. Right Lens: I moved 6 deg. Right Camera: Move Focus 2 deg. Left. Lens: I moved 2 deg. Left. Camera: Focus Confirmation, Move aperture to f/8 Lens: Aperture at f/8 Camera: Snap, picture taken. Release Aperture Lens: Aperture ReleasedHere is a picture of the taped pins. You only want to tape the three pins on the left. The ones on the right let the camera "talk" to the lens through the extender.


kaybsteve

thank you very muchwhat you said made very much sense to me.i apologize for asking more,...1. has there been an incidence where something went awfully wrong because it is not suggested by the manufacturer?2. if canon knew of this, why did they not open the 'gates' somehow. there are a lot canon'ers out there that do not have "1" bodies and wish they could extend the reach. it seems to be selling well and so i assume (1) they either know the hack or (2) there are a whole lot of ultra professional cam bodies out there that can AF, given that they took the effort to produce the III version.do you or anyone know if taping the pins had caused any issue?cannot seem to understand canon's logic..oh well, i have the extender, until i am comfortable taping the pins, it will sit still for the time being.and what tape to use? will it not soil the body pins? such that without the tc, the primary lens cannot communicate the body due to soiling of the contact points..thank you.


Rakumi

Just hold one hand on your camera body and the other on the lens to support it as you shoot. --Darkness is the monster and your shutter is your sword, aperture your shield and iso your armor. Strike fast with your sword and defend well with your shield and hope your armor holds up.


CityLights

1. has there been an incidence where something went awfully wrong because it is not suggested by the manufacturer?Not that I have heard about.2. if canon knew of this, why did they not open the 'gates' somehow. there are a lot canon'ers out there that do not have "1" bodies and wish they could extend the reach. it seems to be selling well and so i assume (1) they either know the hack or (2) there are a whole lot of ultra professional cam bodies out there that can AF, given that they took the effort to produce the III version.Canon's attitude. If you want the "cheap" autofocus get the rebel camera line. If you want the "good" autofocus then upgrade to the professional camera line. They know about the hack, but choose not to change anything.do you or anyone know if taping the pins had caused any issue?Not that I have heard about.and what tape to use?Scotch tape is recommended, but I have read reports where just about any tape will work. Someone even said they used a piece of a band-aid. All you need is something to block the electrical contact and tape is convenient.will it not soil the body pins? such that without the tc, the primary lens cannot communicate the body due to soiling of the contact points..The sticky side of the tape goes to the TC body. That means only the TC will be exposed to the sticky parts and have a possible chance of getting soiled. Even if the TC contacts get soiled, which I have never heard about, it is recommended to lightly and gently use a pencil eraser to clean them. It is recommended to use a pencil eraser to clean the contacts if you have problems with them as they age and get corroded anyway.This is exactly why I purchased a non-canon brand TC that doesn't even have the contacts. The optical quality is not quite as good as the canon, but it works.Cheers!


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