It took me several seconds figuring out why exposure was too dark after taking my X100V outside the bag. I normally set EC dial to C and control exposure through the front wheel. It turns out EC dial was inadvertently set at -3 without me noticing. I almost missed a shot.So does any of you have thoughts on how to lock/fixate the EC dial without causing damage to the camera?

SpeedyNeo wrote:It took me several seconds figuring out why exposure was too dark after taking my X100V outside the bag. I normally set EC dial to C and control exposure through the front wheel. It turns out EC dial was inadvertently set at -3 without me noticing. I almost missed a shot.So does any of you have thoughts on how to lock/fixate the EC dial without causing damage to the camera?The negatives of the current Fuji EC dial on most cameras - you stated it.However, there are positives also.  Most people develop the skill craft after some time with their camera to know without look or without metering when exposure compensation is required.  Hence the EC dial can easily support that since it is well marked.  Not only that it can be accurately changed by feel if you make the decision that you do need some EC by feel of the dial and still have a nice clean viewfinder.I have both the Pro3 and H1.  I will say that the physical EC dial with nice firm clicks on my Pro3 is far superior to the EC control on the H1 which requires a contorted holding down of a button while turning the real wheel while looking in the viewfinder.  Full disclaimer - my view of wheels is whoever conceived such things on a camera as a good idea should be severely punished.However, my wife is learning on my H1, and I can lock the EC control so she does not accidentally change it while she learns.  But I expect her to develop the skill craft in the future that such accidents would be few and far between.I would say for my use the positives far outweigh the negatives.  On the other hand - some may not see it that way. The dial can be moved putting the camera in a bag and removing it.  I often ride my horse with my camera around my neck with a band that goes around my back securing my camera to my chest.  Sometimes movement of my body can move the EC dial.  A quick look - problem solved.  But one has to develop the muscle memory to look.The negatives could be solved, however, with a locking dial similar to the shutter ISO dial on the Pro3.  A simple push - it won't move.  A simple push unlocks it.  On the other hand I would probably leave my unlocked - since if it is locked and you don't realize it by the time you realize it and unlock it - the decisive moment may have already disappeared.

You're right -- it's all about muscle memory! I'll train myself to always look first at the EC then Aperture. Always! I shoot AutoISO and SS and ISO are locked by default.

On both my x-pro2 and my x100v I've a small piece of gaffer tape holding the dial in place. I suppose I almost never use EC.

SpeedyNeo wrote:It took me several seconds figuring out why exposure was too dark after taking my X100V outside the bag. I normally set EC dial to C and control exposure through the front wheel. It turns out EC dial was inadvertently set at -3 without me noticing. I almost missed a shot.So does any of you have thoughts on how to lock/fixate the EC dial without causing damage to the camera?I was an aerial mapper for many years and all of my cameras needed to be fixed focus at infinity. So I would put them in manual focus mode, critically focus them, and run a bead of hot glue all the way around the lens barrel at the focus ring seams. This worked great, and anytime I needed to, I could just peel off the hot glue (always came off cleanly with no residue using just my fingernails).Now, these were working Nikon and Fujifilm DSLRs and I didn’t care about aesthetics, or even possible damage, to some extent. If the X100V is your baby, you may not feel comfortable trying something like this (but hey, you asked 😉) But I wore out several camera bodies and lenses per year and didn’t mind doing what I needed to do to get the job done.(And after doing this for a few years, I finally figured out that I could cut a 1 inch cross section of bicycle inner tube — effectively creating a large rubber band— and put it snugly on the lens barrel instead — to the same effect 😁)FWIW

Well, here's my take on the issue. Note, first, I use EC set to 'C' on my XT4 and XE3 (and use the front dial to change EC) and second I assume that menu settings are similar on the X100V.I have rarely had the 'C' dial turn inadvertently off the 'C' setting as the dials are well damped, but on the odd occasion when it has occurred I have immediately noticed the EC digital display in the EVF/LCD showing a false reading in the EVF (as well as the lightness of the WYSIWYG). I use EC quite a lot so having the digital scale in the EVF is helpful. The EC digital display can be shown in the EVF by ticking it in Set Up menu (Disp Custom Menu). Thus, if the EC dial has been changed it is immediately noticeable on the scale.However, that said, I assume that what I have offered above does not apply to the OVF, in which case ignore my reply!My only other thought is to use black electrical tape. I have put it over the shoulders of the camera to protect it from scratches from the straps and over the white name on the front. It peels off without residue marks. One could put a piece around the EC dial.

Truman Prevatt wrote:I have both the Pro3 and H1. I will say that the physical EC dial with nice firm clicks on my Pro3 is far superior to the EC control on the H1 which requires a contorted holding down of a button while turning the real wheel while looking in the viewfinder.That's a pretty poor UI design choice. In all my cameras that had control wheels (including an X100V), they could be configured such that turning the wheel immediately changes the exp comp. No button presses needed.

larsbc wrote:Truman Prevatt wrote:I have both the Pro3 and H1. I will say that the physical EC dial with nice firm clicks on my Pro3 is far superior to the EC control on the H1 which requires a contorted holding down of a button while turning the real wheel while looking in the viewfinder.That's a pretty poor UI design choice. In all my cameras that had control wheels (including an X100V), they could be configured such that turning the wheel immediately changes the exp comp. No button presses needed.You can change the behavior of the button on the H1 to one that needs to be pressed while turning the rear wheel to an "on/off" switch where on press will activate changing from the rear wheel to off which will eliminate the changing of EC.  For me neither is how I want to control the EC.  As I said earlier - for my use the idiot that thought wheels on a camera were a good idea should be punished.  The real wheel (or front wheel for that matter) can be turned by accident as easy if not easier than the current EC dial on the XPro or XT.I not want to look into my viewfinder for final tweak of the composition and taking the shot which should take a second at most to find I have to argue with my camera because something accidentally changed and I can't see it with my camera at my side.  NO THANK YOU.If anyone wants to know how I really feel about that - feel free to ask.The H1 included the small LCD screen on top which took away the room for a physical EC dial.  Some like it - I'd rather have the EC dial.The bottom line on UI - you can't please everyone.  The H1 is a good camera.  It is a better camera for someone interested in longer lenses or heavier zoom lenses.  It's not a great camera.  It did introduce IBIS but given I used it to shoot equestrian horses - IBIS was usually off because of fast shutter speeds.  I got it for heavier lenses, since I did not like either the build quality of the XT at the time nor did I like the XT2 with way too many buttons in a smaller space.  Again a UI preference.   The Q menu which I have turned off on my H1 and reprogrammed on my Pro3 was moved from the XT2 location right above the joystick (a bad location ) to right by the thumb rest ( an even worse location).  So I had to disable the Q button totally since I kept fat thumbing it and missed too many shots because of it.  Horses galloping at 35 to 40 mph don't wait around for you to fiddle with your camera.  There is really a decisive moment - especially when the world is moving at 40 mph.The best part of the H1 was the new damped and silenced shutter.  The grip - well I developed all my muscle memory and what little skill craft I have without a grip - so it got in the way more than it helped and was a little too deep for the length of my fingers to be long term comfortable.  I gave it to my wife to learn on and haven't used it since I got the Pro3.  The Pro3's EVF is significantly better than the Pro2's and found I don't need the H1 for equestrian sports any longer.

Hi TrumanIf the wheels turn while the camera is off nothing will happen. I understand this may still be a problem for some, but the EC dial on the other hand is a real pain. It definitely needs a lock mechanism in my opinion.

I've returned to  using the EC regularly, so the habit to assess the EC setting is - habitual [g], to counter the same frustration.   I'll turn to using C at times, but the habit makes monitoring the EC as routine as monitoring the shutter and aperture while shooting.Works for me.   Just thinking aloud.

SpeedyNeo wrote:Hi TrumanIf the wheels turn while the camera is off nothing will happen. I understand this may still be a problem for some, but the EC dial on the other hand is a real pain. It definitely needs a lock mechanism in my opinion.All in all, a simple push button lock would work but if and only if you could tell if it were locked by feel.  That is locked vs. unlocked the push button in the center of the dial either up or down.  Probably doesn't matter which but a simple feel to tell you it is locked as you bring the camera to your eye so it could be unlocked if needed.As far as wheels.  On my Pro2 and Pro3 and most other Fuji cameras, it lays right at the end of my thumb - to easy to move especially when moving my camera to my eye to see "surprise."  I don't like surprises from my camera.  I don't like my camera to "interpret" an accidental movement of my thumb.  My camera is there as a tool not something to argue with.  If I want to argue - there is my wife and girlfriend.But a well place push down locking button in the center of the EC dial would not be a bad idea. However, the button like on the ISO dial on my Pro3 is a non-starter.  You have to hold it down and change the ISO - that is a absolute a non-starter.I actually have no issues with the current EC dial since I always glance to the top of my camera as I bring it to my eye and can tell by feel when I change it and by how much by feel. I view photography as a full contact sport - you need to be able to use all your senses.However, I would have no issues with a well designed pop up pop down on off lock button.  But given Fuji's fumble on the EC lock on the H1 and the fumble on the ISO dial lock (got to hold it down and turn at the same time) I'm not sure I trust Fuji to not fumble this also.   Those would be and absolute and total non-starters in my book.

SpeedyNeo wrote:It took me several seconds figuring out why exposure was too dark after taking my X100V outside the bag. I normally set EC dial to C and control exposure through the front wheel. It turns out EC dial was inadvertently set at -3 without me noticing. I almost missed a shot.So does any of you have thoughts on how to lock/fixate the EC dial without causing damage to the camera?Two common solutions to fix this problem seems to be:But if you set the front wheel to control EC, neither would help...

Dem Bell wrote:SpeedyNeo wrote:It took me several seconds figuring out why exposure was too dark after taking my X100V outside the bag. I normally set EC dial to C and control exposure through the front wheel. It turns out EC dial was inadvertently set at -3 without me noticing. I almost missed a shot.So does any of you have thoughts on how to lock/fixate the EC dial without causing damage to the camera?Two common solutions to fix this problem seems to be:But if you set the front wheel to control EC, neither would help...No, they would still help coz the EC dial needs to be on C for the front wheel to change EC. If the EC dial inadvertently moves to any specific value, the front wheel ceases to change EC.

I carry my X100V hanging off my shoulder. I noticed EC changed unexpectedly from bumping against my body. Since I returned to using the lensmate thumb grip it doesn’t happen anymore. I assume the thumb grip would prevent EC changes when taking in/out of the camera bag, but then you get the frustration of the thing snagging on things. Too many compromises.

Robmas4229 wrote:I carry my X100V hanging off my shoulder. I noticed EC changed unexpectedly from bumping against my body. Since I returned to using the lensmate thumb grip it doesn’t happen anymore. I assume the thumb grip would prevent EC changes when taking in/out of the camera bag, but then you get the frustration of the thing snagging on things. Too many compromises.Solution glance at the top of your camera when removing it from a bag.  I found the thumb grips a solution looking for a reason to make someone else money.  I have one.  I tried it on my XPro2 where it lasted about 15 nanoseconds as it got tangled up coming out of the bag.  The only reason I tired it was my Leica had a curved film winder lever that provided a place to lay my thumb comfortably so I could quickly advance the film.Well there is no film to advance in digital cameras and these grips don't really put everyone's or maybe even anyones thumb in a relaxed comfortable location.If one carries a camera on a neck strap or shoulder strap and leave it on, your body will move the joystick - hence the focus box.  So when you see a shot developing and put the puppy to your eye - you have to mess with the bloody joystick as you decisive moment dissolves in front of your eyes.  Solution, turn the bloody camera off between pictures.  After all at least my Pro2 and Pro3 cameras will boot up faster than the will wake up.  They will boot up by the time you turn them on when you grab them and get them to your eye and the focus point hasn't moved from where it was when you turned it off.  I assume the same with your X100V.A clicking lock button could lock the EC dial, but then to use it it adds an additional step.  However, it would help people like you and I could just leave it unlocked.  Sounds like a win-win to me.

Truman Prevatt wrote:Robmas4229 wrote:I carry my X100V hanging off my shoulder. I noticed EC changed unexpectedly from bumping against my body. Since I returned to using the lensmate thumb grip it doesn’t happen anymore. I assume the thumb grip would prevent EC changes when taking in/out of the camera bag, but then you get the frustration of the thing snagging on things. Too many compromises.Solution glance at the top of your camera when removing it from a bag. I found the thumb grips a solution looking for a reason to make someone else money. I have one. I tried it on my XPro2 where it lasted about 15 nanoseconds as it got tangled up coming out of the bag.One of two of my issues with using it. The other is (although it can hinge out of the way, extra step) is awkward access to the rear dial, AEL/AFL button and the SS dial. The latter less of an issue as I mostly shoot in A priority.The only reason I tired it was my Leica had a curved film winder lever that provided a place to lay my thumb comfortably so I could quickly advance the film.Well there is no film to advance in digital cameras and these grips don't really put everyone's or maybe even anyones thumb in a relaxed comfortable location.It does actually make the camera more natural to hold, for me.If one carries a camera on a neck strap or shoulder strap and leave it on, your body will move the joystick - hence the focus box. So when you see a shot developing and put the puppy to your eye - you have to mess with the bloody joystick as you decisive moment dissolves in front of your eyes. Solution, turn the bloody camera off between pictures. After all at least my Pro2 and Pro3 cameras will boot up faster than the will wake up. They will boot up by the time you turn them on when you grab them and get them to your eye and the focus point hasn't moved from where it was when you turned it off. I assume the same with your X100V.This. If the camera is hanging on my shoulder I am not actively shooting so it's turned off, thus any actuation of the joystick is no issue.A clicking lock button could lock the EC dial, but then to use it it adds an additional step. However, it would help people like you and I could just leave it unlocked. Sounds like a win-win to me.Agree, just like the lock button on my XT2 ISO and SS dial.

James Gaston wrote:On both my x-pro2 and my x100v I've a small piece of gaffer tape holding the dial in place. I suppose I almost never use EC.I use black plastic electrical tape for this sort of thing.  I've only used it on lenses though.  I put a little kink or bendback at the end so it is easy to peel it off quickly if I need to.After a long time the adhesive on black plastic electrical tape will leave a residue but they say gaffer tape will not.  I haven't had a problem with this however.

SpeedyNeo wrote:Hi TrumanIf the wheels turn while the camera is off nothing will happen.Exactly.  That's why I like using control wheels.  They're very quick and easy to turn when I'm actively using the camera.  When I'm not using the camera, it is turned off and there's no issue with accidentally changing my settings.  Plus I can choose whether the camera reverts to last-used settings or to start from a specified default.  For ME, the wheels are great.

James Gaston wrote:On both my x-pro2 and my x100v I've a small piece of gaffer tape holding the dial in place. I suppose I almost never use EC.I don't lock my EC dial, but I do have gaffer tape on my bodies to lock them on AF-C.  I also have gaffer tape on my lenses to lock aperture and/or IS.For those unfamiliar with "gaffer" tape, it looks similar to "duct" tape, but has a matte black cloth exterior instead of the glossy silver plastic of duct tape.  The adhesive used on gaffer tape is also a bit gentler and will usually release cleanly.  If the gaffer tape is left in place for months, some adhesive residue might get left behind when the tape is peeled away, but it is very easy to remove.  Often it can just be blotted away using the piece of tape your just removed.

Robmas4229 wrote:Truman Prevatt wrote:Robmas4229 wrote:I carry my X100V hanging off my shoulder. I noticed EC changed unexpectedly from bumping against my body. Since I returned to using the lensmate thumb grip it doesn’t happen anymore. I assume the thumb grip would prevent EC changes when taking in/out of the camera bag, but then you get the frustration of the thing snagging on things. Too many compromises.Solution glance at the top of your camera when removing it from a bag. I found the thumb grips a solution looking for a reason to make someone else money. I have one. I tried it on my XPro2 where it lasted about 15 nanoseconds as it got tangled up coming out of the bag.One of two of my issues with using it. The other is (although it can hinge out of the way, extra step) is awkward access to the rear dial, AEL/AFL button and the SS dial. The latter less of an issue as I mostly shoot in A priority.The only reason I tired it was my Leica had a curved film winder lever that provided a place to lay my thumb comfortably so I could quickly advance the film.Well there is no film to advance in digital cameras and these grips don't really put everyone's or maybe even anyones thumb in a relaxed comfortable location.It does actually make the camera more natural to hold, for me.If one carries a camera on a neck strap or shoulder strap and leave it on, your body will move the joystick - hence the focus box. So when you see a shot developing and put the puppy to your eye - you have to mess with the bloody joystick as you decisive moment dissolves in front of your eyes. Solution, turn the bloody camera off between pictures. After all at least my Pro2 and Pro3 cameras will boot up faster than the will wake up. They will boot up by the time you turn them on when you grab them and get them to your eye and the focus point hasn't moved from where it was when you turned it off. I assume the same with your X100V.This. If the camera is hanging on my shoulder I am not actively shooting so it's turned off, thus any actuation of the joystick is no issue.A clicking lock button could lock the EC dial, but then to use it it adds an additional step. However, it would help people like you and I could just leave it unlocked. Sounds like a win-win to me.Agree, just like the lock button on my XT2 ISO and SS dial.I have to wonder what brain trust at Fuji decided to change the lock on the Pro3 ISO dial to a push and hold down to change instead of the simple button lock on the Pro 2 and XT 2.