Hello out there!at the weekend I had a long strenghening hike in the steep woods of the "Black Forrest"/Germany in order to take some important botanical and entomological pictures. I tried on-site different setups (film sims) of my brave X100V. But as I downloaded those some 40 pictures from the memory card, I arrived at the conclusion, that not any of those pictures was suitable for my purposes. Too yellowish, shadows flooded, highlights burned out, too reddish – all that "romantic" and nostalgic films sims, are useless, if you want to get reliable results.Now I have the impression, that with the X100V there are no chances to de-activate any colour shift, exposure shift, dynamic range shift in order to get "objective" results with in-camera-JPG. Most important realistic auto white balance, decent dynamic range for shadows and highlights, no grain.I'm searching for a film simulation: "most accurate" to the "reality".

Films sims wont fix bad exposures. So the burnt out highlights cannot be fixed by them. I suggest turning on the histogram for that.But when it comes to closest colour reproduction i suggest giving this a read to understand what each film sim does:https://www.imaging-resource.com/news/2020/08/18/fujifilm-film-simulations-definitive-guideif you still have the RAWs, use the X RAW Studio software to check different film sims with slight tweaks to colour, shadows and highlights. Once you feel that youve achieved what looks most natural to you, save that as a recipe in-camera. Hopefully that will help you achieve the results you want in the future.Each person sees differently, and then there is also the question of monitor calibration, so i wont even try to tell you what settings will look most accurate to you.

You can say the same about any camera out there.

You need to:1. Calibrate your JPEG in camera settings using a colour checker tool, so you end up with accurate colour reproductions.2. Use expo disk or similar to calibrate your WB.Stop using film simulations (which are no more than pre-sets) if you want accurate colour and WB reproduction.

Set all your parameters back to 0 and shoot film sim bracketing with Provia, Astia, and another one. Then decide which you like and start adjusting the parameters form there.

DarnGoodPhotos wrote:Set all your parameters back to 0 and shoot film sim bracketing with Provia, Astia, and another one. Then decide which you like and start adjusting the parameters form there.This is what I tried, found that I NegH very much.

RobOkie wrote:DarnGoodPhotos wrote:Set all your parameters back to 0 and shoot film sim bracketing with Provia, Astia, and another one. Then decide which you like and start adjusting the parameters form there.This is what I tried, found that I NegH very much.Pro-Neg Std and Eterna are fairly low contrast sims.Also look into DR, DR-Priority, and HDR for high contrast situations.But in the end, only shooting Raw+JPG will allow you to undo JPG settings.

In my experience, Astia renders plant colors most accurately, particularly when combined with an appropriately chosen WB  setting. For general shooting, try one of the Pro Negs-- they are pretty objective. Provia gives that old school color print film look.

You need to:1. Calibrate your JPEG in camera settings using a colour checker tool, so you end up with accurate colour reproductions.2. Use expo disk or similar to calibrate your WB.Stop using film simulations (which are no more than pre-sets) if you want accurate colour and WB reproduction.EVERY jpeg produced by a Fuji camera uses a film simulation. The only way to avoid simulations is to shoot raw.  I find the Pro Negative Standard sim to be the most neutral and low contrast.

I have the same criticism of Fujifilm film simulations.   I like that they exist but there should be a 'Natural' setting that has nothing to do with the character of film.On my X-T2 the best I think I can do is Pro Neg Standard and Color +3/+4.

bowportes wrote:You need to:1. Calibrate your JPEG in camera settings using a colour checker tool, so you end up with accurate colour reproductions.2. Use expo disk or similar to calibrate your WB.Stop using film simulations (which are no more than pre-sets) if you want accurate colour and WB reproduction.EVERY jpeg produced by a Fuji camera uses a film simulation.Not if you create your own jpeg pre-set, properly calibrated.The only way to avoid simulations is to shoot raw. I find the Pro Negative Standard sim to be the most neutral and low contrast.

Many thanks to you all for your thoughts and contribution! I feared that I'm wrong assuming, that there is *no* in-camera JPG  without film sim possible - and therefore a colour (etc.) shift. There remain your advice to test certain film sims or shooting RAW.I think I'm familiar with colour management, working since over 30 years in prepress environment. Using a Kodak grey card (I own) for custom white balance will be in vain together with in-camera JPG.This may be an aspect for Fujifilm for further firmware upgrades?Thanks again,

Film Sim is just Fuji's name for their JPG color profiles and since Provia is the default, it is their regular one. Even if Fuji created a more natural JPG profile, it would still be called a film sim.It's up to you to customize the JPG settings.