Dear friends,As a new OM-1 user, may I ask a question regarding red dot sight for OM1? Can I use Nikon DF-M1 on OM-1 or the only one could be use is Olympus EE-1. Do they have different hot shoe dimentions? If they all fit, which one do you prefer? Your answer is really appreciated!Kevin

Kevin-L wrote:As a new OM-1 user, may I ask a question regarding red dot sight for OM1? Can I use Nikon DF-M1 on OM-1 or the only one could be use is Olympus EE-1. Do they have different hot shoe dimentions? If they all fit, which one do you prefer? Your answer is really appreciated!The Olympus EE-1 uses a cold-shoe (with internal battery), so it can work on any camera.  If the Nikon DF-M1 also uses a cold-shoe and a  battery, then it will probably work on any camera.All hot-shoes are the same size; the only differences are the pin arrangements for TTL flash.  However, the EE-1 is a cold-shoe, meaning it uses no pins, and only needs the hot-shoe for physical support.

cc99 wrote:Kevin-L wrote:As a new OM-1 user, may I ask a question regarding red dot sight for OM1? Can I use Nikon DF-M1 on OM-1 or the only one could be use is Olympus EE-1. Do they have different hot shoe dimentions? If they all fit, which one do you prefer? Your answer is really appreciated!The Olympus EE-1 uses a cold-shoe (with internal battery), so it can work on any camera. If the Nikon DF-M1 also uses a cold-shoe and a battery, then it will probably work on any camera.All hot-shoes are the same size; the only differences are the pin arrangements for TTL flash. However, the EE-1 is a cold-shoe, meaning it uses no pins, and only needs the hot-shoe for physical support.Thanks a lot! Since both work, I am wondering which one to choose now, DF-M1 or EE1.

Kevin-L wrote:Since both work, I am wondering which one to choose now, DF-M1 or EE1.The EE-1 is 20% cheaper in my country (Canada).  Prestige has a price.

cc99 wrote:Kevin-L wrote:Since both work, I am wondering which one to choose now, DF-M1 or EE1.The EE-1 is 20% cheaper in my country (Canada). Prestige has a price.Also, the Olympus is weather proof, the Nikon is not.

cc99 wrote:Kevin-L wrote:Since both work, I am wondering which one to choose now, DF-M1 or EE1.The EE-1 is 20% cheaper in my country (Canada). Prestige has a price.Interesting! DF-M1 is 20% cheaper than EE1 in China

Stephen Strangways wrote:cc99 wrote:Kevin-L wrote:Since both work, I am wondering which one to choose now, DF-M1 or EE1.The EE-1 is 20% cheaper in my country (Canada). Prestige has a price.Also, the Olympus is weather proof, the Nikon is not.Weather proof is a good point. Btw, my OM-1 lens PL100-400 is not that good at weahter proof either. However, do you think there is any quality or performance difference between EE1 and DF-M1?

Kevin-L wrote:.Weather proof is a good point. Btw, my OM-1 lens PL100-400 is not that good at weahter proof either. However, do you think there is any quality or performance difference between EE1 and DF-M1?In the beginning? Probably not much difference at all. After you get caught in the rain or splashed by a wave? The Olympus that's still working will be far better than the Nikon that has stopped working.

Kevin-L wrote:my OM-1 lens PL100-400 is not that good at weahter proof either.BTW: The dot-sights have to be calibrated to a specific focal length, and so work better with primes than zooms.  You can calibrate to maximum zoom, but that causes trouble elsewhere.

cc99 wrote:Kevin-L wrote:my OM-1 lens PL100-400 is not that good at weahter proof either.BTW: The dot-sights have to be calibrated to a specific focal length, and so work better with primes than zooms. You can calibrate to maximum zoom, but that causes trouble elsewhere.No, they don't, unless the tracking of your lens is way off. They need to be calibrated to a specificsubject distance.

Stephen Strangways wrote:cc99 wrote:Kevin-L wrote:my OM-1 lens PL100-400 is not that good at weahter proof either.BTW: The dot-sights have to be calibrated to a specific focal length, and so work better with primes than zooms. You can calibrate to maximum zoom, but that causes trouble elsewhere.No, they don't, unless the tracking of your lens is way off. They need to be calibrated to a specificsubject distance.I don't know anything Nikon, but I own and use the EE-1, and it doesn't work the way you think it ought to.  To quote frommirrorlessons.com:Note that the configuration is related to the focal length used. For example if you set up everything for a 100mm lens and then change it for a 300mm lens, it is likely that you will need to reconfigure everything. The EE-1 makes more sense to use with very long focal lengths but if you intend to use different lenses, the best option is to configure it with the longest telephoto you have. If you are using a zoom lens, start at the longest focal length.If the Nikon really did work perfectly with zooms, regardless of focal length, it would be much better than the EE-1.  But I would check that before buying.

cc99 wrote:Stephen Strangways wrote:cc99 wrote:Kevin-L wrote:my OM-1 lens PL100-400 is not that good at weahter proof either.BTW: The dot-sights have to be calibrated to a specific focal length, and so work better with primes than zooms. You can calibrate to maximum zoom, but that causes trouble elsewhere.No, they don't, unless the tracking of your lens is way off. They need to be calibrated to a specificsubject distance.I don't know anything Nikon, but I own and use the EE-1, and it doesn't work the way you think it ought to. To quote frommirrorlessons.com:Note that the configuration is related to the focal length used. For example if you set up everything for a 100mm lens and then change it for a 300mm lens, it is likely that you will need to reconfigure everything. The EE-1 makes more sense to use with very long focal lengths but if you intend to use different lenses, the best option is to configure it with the longest telephoto you have. If you are using a zoom lens, start at the longest focal length.If the Nikon really did work perfectly with zooms, regardless of focal length, it would be much better than the EE-1. But I would check that before buying.If Nikon dot site is in the same location with respect to the sensor and at the same height as the EE-1, there should be no difference in how they perform.  One may be somewhat easier to align than the other, but performance should be essentially the same.I have used the EE-1 primarily with the MC20+300mm when shooting fast moving targets where they are visible for only a very short period of time.  It is relatively easy to adjust for targets more than about 50 feet away.  However, for close targets, accuracy will depend on the distance of the target and your adjustment, since the dot sight center is not located at the center of the sensor.

cc99 wrote:I don't know anything Nikon, but I own and use the EE-1, and it doesn't work the way you think it ought to. To quote frommirrorlessons.com:Note that the configuration is related to the focal length used. For example if you set up everything for a 100mm lens and then change it for a 300mm lens, it is likely that you will need to reconfigure everything. The EE-1 makes more sense to use with very long focal lengths but if you intend to use different lenses, the best option is to configure it with the longest telephoto you have. If you are using a zoom lens, start at the longest focal length.If the Nikon really did work perfectly with zooms, regardless of focal length, it would be much better than the EE-1. But I would check that before buying.Both the Nikon and Olympus work the exact same way, and I assure you, mirrorlessons has no clue what they're talking about. I think I know what they're trying to say, or where they got confused: if you photographed a subject at 50 metres at 100mm focal length, and then zoomed to 300mm for a subject at 150 metres, you would need to adjust the scope. But the reason is subject distance, not focal length.Align the scope for a subject at 50 metres and zoom between 100mm and 300mm and it will stay aligned.Align the scope for a subject at 150 metres and zoom between 100mm and 300mm and it will stay aligned.Align the scope for a subject at 50 metres, keep the lens at 100mm, and the subject moves away to 150 metres, then there will be a misalignment.The Olympus instructions are rather sparse, but Nikon's are a bit more helpful: "The position of the reticle must be adjusted according to the distance to the subject."Distance to the subject is what matters, not focal length.

I have used the EE-1 now and then for birds, mostly small or mid-sized fast flying ones... Sometimes with a good luck, sometimes not. But that's not the EE-1 fault.I adjust the the red dot to the center of the image in the most expected distance with the longest focal length of the lens (in my case 150mm, 300 or 400mm). I also turn the lcd-screen on and use it for final framing - if I have time for that. Usually not.The framing with a red dot is never precise, so you have to leave some room for cropping in PP. Not a problem.The AF and bird recognition of OM-1 seems to work quite nicely, so I now use the whole area CAF and wish for the best... With EM1.2 I used the larger center area. Focus distance limiters can be used for faster focusing.And shoot "zombie-style" - arms straight, so you can see both the red dot and back screen. Relay on IS.PS. There is also the "delete"-button. It will have a job to do.have a nice day!Jouko 'The best camera in the world is the one you have with you when you need it' https://www.instagram.com/jouko.k.lehto/ http://lehtokukka.smugmug.com/ http://jouko-lehto.artistwebsites.com/ https://joukolehto.blogspot.fi/- Lenses for mFT-cameras https://joukolehto.blogspot.fi/2015/12/what-to-dowith-camera-during-winter.html

Stephen Strangways wrote:Both the Nikon and Olympus work the exact same way, and I assure you, mirrorlessons has no clue what they're talking about.I apologize. I just did the experiment, and it's obvious that you're correct.  If the dot-sight is aligned at 400mm, it must also be aligned at all other focal lengths, if the subject does not move.  I am guilty of casually believing what I read, without thinking it through.

cc99 wrote:Stephen Strangways wrote:Both the Nikon and Olympus work the exact same way, and I assure you, mirrorlessons has no clue what they're talking about.I apologize. I just did the experiment, and it's obvious that you're correct. If the dot-sight is aligned at 400mm, it must also be aligned at all other focal lengths, if the subject does not move. I am guilty of casually believing what I read, without thinking it through.It's just a shame that in seven years, that article has never been corrected, and will continue to mislead people.

Stephen Strangways wrote:cc99 wrote:Kevin-L wrote:my OM-1 lens PL100-400 is not that good at weahter proof either.BTW: The dot-sights have to be calibrated to a specific focal length, and so work better with primes than zooms. You can calibrate to maximum zoom, but that causes trouble elsewhere.No, they don't, unless the tracking of your lens is way off. They need to be calibrated to a specificsubject distance.I have written an article on my website about red dot sights and calibration. It really is so simple.I now use the olympus one as it it tiny, light and so convenient to use.Ps. This link will take you to my website article and there will be a warning saying my website isn't safe. I assure you it's 10p% safe. I've no interest in harvesting data - even if I knew how to.http://www.t1000.co.uk/art-fotografia/articles/article_red-dot-sight-alignment_.html