The place

Nice to see someone still putting the E-M1X to good use.I was beginning to think they were all on mpb.Stephen

S Jones wrote:Nice to see someone still putting the E-M1X to good use.I was beginning to think they were all on mpb.StephenIt's amazing how much an ad campaign can convince people to abandon their gear. I bought my M1X a couple months after the release of the M1. From all I read and saw at the time there was no IQ boost other than jpegs being cooked which I can do better in PP on my M1X and virtually nothing that was meaningful to me. I paid half for my M1X what the M1 sold for. I never use bird ID just single point or area group and I get more keepers than I have space to store them.I've used smaller mirrorless cameras but for me the M1X body is superior in many ways. Controls  and the  grip are made for bigger lenses.  The larger body grip greatly helps counter the weight of a long lens in which  physics is applied in fulcrum points. Also when paddling I can blindly reach and grab my camera blindly because of the multiple grip points. Yes, for me it's about a working camera not about  smaller and control crammed  body.I may get another M1X  to carry another lens. Changing lenses in a kayak or canoe is often counter productive because by the time I change the lens the opportunity passes. Ideally , for how & where I shoot, having long reach 100-400mm good light lens and a fast low light lens like my 40-150mm f2.8 or my Panny 200mm f2.8. Once inside the swamps or wilderness areas the sun rarely penetrates so the 100-400 is worthless.Thanks

Just wondering if you have tried Thomas Stirr's method of using the Bird recognition with a single focus point? (Normal not small.)It is something I am trying out. So far so good but whether it is better than 5x5 points CAF remains to be determined.Stephen

S Jones wrote:Just wondering if you have tried Thomas Stirr's method of using the Bird recognition with a single focus point? (Normal not small.)It is something I am trying out. So far so good but whether it is better than 5x5 points CAF remains to be determined.StephenHi, I haven't heard of Stirr and honestly what I'm doing works very well. I don't miss many shots so really no point at this time to change anything I'm doing.  Perhaps I could share my technique with Strrr

Hornsbee wrote:S Jones wrote:Just wondering if you have tried Thomas Stirr's method of using the Bird recognition with a single focus point? (Normal not small.)It is something I am trying out. So far so good but whether it is better than 5x5 points CAF remains to be determined.StephenHi, I haven't heard of Stirr and honestly what I'm doing works very well. I don't miss many shots so really no point at this time to change anything I'm doing. Perhaps I could share my technique with StrrrWell you can share it with me!A quick question - what do you have as your focus sensitivity setting?

S Jones wrote:Hornsbee wrote:S Jones wrote:Just wondering if you have tried Thomas Stirr's method of using the Bird recognition with a single focus point? (Normal not small.)It is something I am trying out. So far so good but whether it is better than 5x5 points CAF remains to be determined.StephenHi, I haven't heard of Stirr and honestly what I'm doing works very well. I don't miss many shots so really no point at this time to change anything I'm doing. Perhaps I could share my technique with StrrrWell you can share it with me!A quick question - what do you have as your focus sensitivity setting?Most of the time -0- at times +1 or 3.  For me that covers virtually everything I shoot. When I got my M1X  I read the manual, in phases many times, stopping at each function and setting and then shooting with those settings over and over to get a feel for what an adjustment can do. It's like learning to play an instrument. In real world shooting you can't be wasting time readjusting settings imo.  When I'm out shooting, for example yesterdays swamp visit,  light changed every few seconds, subjects popped up out of nowhere, coming at me, over me, away from me, etc ., etc.  backgrounds changed every  time a I took a shot . It's impossible to compensate for all those situations.I do configure customs settings for the typical things I shoot but those will likely not help anyone unless they shoot in the same place at the same things at the same time of the day.  I think the best thing for any wildlife shooter is to practice using every function on your camera and in different situations. I've found nothing better than to use your camera and as much as possible master the controls and technique. It takes a lot of work and I know perhaps 95% will never  take control with their gear. Bottom line is practice, practice and practice.

Hornsbee wrote:S Jones wrote:Hornsbee wrote:S Jones wrote:Just wondering if you have tried Thomas Stirr's method of using the Bird recognition with a single focus point? (Normal not small.)It is something I am trying out. So far so good but whether it is better than 5x5 points CAF remains to be determined.StephenHi, I haven't heard of Stirr and honestly what I'm doing works very well. I don't miss many shots so really no point at this time to change anything I'm doing. Perhaps I could share my technique with StrrrWell you can share it with me!A quick question - what do you have as your focus sensitivity setting?Most of the time -0- at times +1 or 3. For me that covers virtually everything I shoot. When I got my M1X I read the manual, in phases many times, stopping at each function and setting and then shooting with those settings over and over to get a feel for what an adjustment can do. It's like learning to play an instrument. In real world shooting you can't be wasting time readjusting settings imo. When I'm out shooting, for example yesterdays swamp visit, light changed every few seconds, subjects popped up out of nowhere, coming at me, over me, away from me, etc ., etc. backgrounds changed every time a I took a shot . It's impossible to compensate for all those situations.I do configure customs settings for the typical things I shoot but those will likely not help anyone unless they shoot in the same place at the same things at the same time of the day. I think the best thing for any wildlife shooter is to practice using every function on your camera and in different situations. I've found nothing better than to use your camera and as much as possible master the controls and technique. It takes a lot of work and I know perhaps 95% will never take control with their gear. Bottom line is practice, practice and practice.Thank you for your explanation.I am generally v happy with my set up and have custom C1-C4 and all the buttons set up in a way that works for me.My issue is that I have soft images in among sharp ones in a burst that I can not account for with anything that I am doing. I know that even the OM-1 misses in a burst I am just seeing if I can find ways of limiting them with my E-M1X. So I am looking at my settings with the sensitivity the one that I am going to experiment with. I thought I would get another opinion.Thanks again for your help and I hope you find another forum you are happy with when this one shuts.Stephen

S Jones wrote:Hornsbee wrote:S Jones wrote:Hornsbee wrote:S Jones wrote:Just wondering if you have tried Thomas Stirr's method of using the Bird recognition with a single focus point? (Normal not small.)It is something I am trying out. So far so good but whether it is better than 5x5 points CAF remains to be determined.StephenHi, I haven't heard of Stirr and honestly what I'm doing works very well. I don't miss many shots so really no point at this time to change anything I'm doing. Perhaps I could share my technique with StrrrWell you can share it with me!A quick question - what do you have as your focus sensitivity setting?Most of the time -0- at times +1 or 3. For me that covers virtually everything I shoot. When I got my M1X I read the manual, in phases many times, stopping at each function and setting and then shooting with those settings over and over to get a feel for what an adjustment can do. It's like learning to play an instrument. In real world shooting you can't be wasting time readjusting settings imo. When I'm out shooting, for example yesterdays swamp visit, light changed every few seconds, subjects popped up out of nowhere, coming at me, over me, away from me, etc ., etc. backgrounds changed every time a I took a shot . It's impossible to compensate for all those situations.I do configure customs settings for the typical things I shoot but those will likely not help anyone unless they shoot in the same place at the same things at the same time of the day. I think the best thing for any wildlife shooter is to practice using every function on your camera and in different situations. I've found nothing better than to use your camera and as much as possible master the controls and technique. It takes a lot of work and I know perhaps 95% will never take control with their gear. Bottom line is practice, practice and practice.Thank you for your explanation.I am generally v happy with my set up and have custom C1-C4 and all the buttons set up in a way that works for me.My issue is that I have soft images in among sharp ones in a burst that I can not account for with anything that I am doing. I know that even the OM-1 misses in a burst I am just seeing if I can find ways of limiting them with my E-M1X. So I am looking at my settings with the sensitivity the one that I am going to experiment with. I thought I would get another opinion.Thanks again for your help and I hope you find another forum you are happy with when this one shuts.StephenI think it's difficult to determine the cause of intermittent soft images. Could be a number of things and trying to replicate the same conditions after resetting adjustments can be difficult. I found that the more my technique improved the better my photos and why I constantly try to improve it. Although I'm not in objection to seek guidance from others but I've always been a problem solver and my own best (or worst) critique. Keep working to develop a smooth panning technique and don't zoom in too close to subjects like BIF.Yesterday for example when I found that GBH in the weeds I knew from experience that he would likely take off. I zoomed in while in the weeds but after getting a few shots in the weeds I pulled back the zoom in anticipation of a launch. I probably would have missed the burst had I remained zoomed in as the whole burst was but a couple seconds long.Here's a few more from yesterdays kayaking. To add to the difficulty most of the shots I took were in a moving kayak which will tax any AF but I've found my M1X to handle those situations superbly! These three were consecutive shots from a two second burst. Every one was in focus.

"I think it's difficult to determine the cause of intermittent soft images. Could be a number of things and trying to replicate the same conditions after resetting adjustments can be difficult."Yep I agree."I found that the more my technique improved the better my photos and why I constantly try to improve it. Although I'm not in objection to seek guidance from others but I've always been a problem solver. "I agree with this too. But others can give you ideas for things to try. Single spot with bird tracking being one I hadn't thought to try until I found Thomas Stirr's website."Keep working to develop a smooth panning technique and don't zoom in too close to subjects like BIF."The technique I will practice but zooming on my 300mm f4 will be beyond me!Stephen

"Keep working to develop a smooth panning technique and don't zoom in too close to subjects like BIF."The technique I will practice but zooming on my 300mm f4 will be beyond me!StephenWell, my dad used to tell me I don't need a zoom if use my legsA kayak or canoe can be used to zoom in or out and I do that with my 200mm f2.8.  I debated getting the 300mm f/4 but I could not find a good deal on a used one as I'm on a tight budget. I saw some great works by pros using the Panasonic Leica 200mm f2.8 and ultimately bought one used and of course a great deal. A few months later found a mint 1.4 tele converter at reasonable cost. It was almost impossible to find as a stand alone lens and the few which I saw where incredibly expensive! If I stay with M43  and have money to burn I will eventually get a 300mm but right now I'm very satisfied with the flexibility of the 200mm & TC.

Hornsbee wrote:"Keep working to develop a smooth panning technique and don't zoom in too close to subjects like BIF."The technique I will practice but zooming on my 300mm f4 will be beyond me!StephenWell, my dad used to tell me I don't need a zoom if use my legsA kayak or canoe can be used to zoom in or out and I do that with my 200mm f2.8. I debated getting the 300mm f/4 but I could not find a good deal on a used one as I'm on a tight budget. I saw some great works by pros using the Panasonic Leica 200mm f2.8 and ultimately bought one used and of course a great deal. A few months later found a mint 1.4 tele converter at reasonable cost. It was almost impossible to find as a stand alone lens and the few which I saw where incredibly expensive! If I stay with M43 and have money to burn I will eventually get a 300mm but right now I'm very satisfied with the flexibility of the 200mm & TC.The 200mm f2.8  plus your 100-400 make a great combination and much more flexible than my 300mm.

Hornsbee wrote:S Jones wrote:Hornsbee wrote:S Jones wrote:Hornsbee wrote:S Jones wrote:Just wondering if you have tried Thomas Stirr's method of using the Bird recognition with a single focus point? (Normal not small.)It is something I am trying out. So far so good but whether it is better than 5x5 points CAF remains to be determined.StephenHi, I haven't heard of Stirr and honestly what I'm doing works very well. I don't miss many shots so really no point at this time to change anything I'm doing. Perhaps I could share my technique with StrrrWell you can share it with me!A quick question - what do you have as your focus sensitivity setting?Most of the time -0- at times +1 or 3. For me that covers virtually everything I shoot. When I got my M1X I read the manual, in phases many times, stopping at each function and setting and then shooting with those settings over and over to get a feel for what an adjustment can do. It's like learning to play an instrument. In real world shooting you can't be wasting time readjusting settings imo. When I'm out shooting, for example yesterdays swamp visit, light changed every few seconds, subjects popped up out of nowhere, coming at me, over me, away from me, etc ., etc. backgrounds changed every time a I took a shot . It's impossible to compensate for all those situations.I do configure customs settings for the typical things I shoot but those will likely not help anyone unless they shoot in the same place at the same things at the same time of the day. I think the best thing for any wildlife shooter is to practice using every function on your camera and in different situations. I've found nothing better than to use your camera and as much as possible master the controls and technique. It takes a lot of work and I know perhaps 95% will never take control with their gear. Bottom line is practice, practice and practice.Thank you for your explanation.I am generally v happy with my set up and have custom C1-C4 and all the buttons set up in a way that works for me.My issue is that I have soft images in among sharp ones in a burst that I can not account for with anything that I am doing. I know that even the OM-1 misses in a burst I am just seeing if I can find ways of limiting them with my E-M1X. So I am looking at my settings with the sensitivity the one that I am going to experiment with. I thought I would get another opinion.Thanks again for your help and I hope you find another forum you are happy with when this one shuts.StephenI think it's difficult to determine the cause of intermittent soft images. Could be a number of things and trying to replicate the same conditions after resetting adjustments can be difficult. I found that the more my technique improved the better my photos and why I constantly try to improve it. Although I'm not in objection to seek guidance from others but I've always been a problem solver and my own best (or worst) critique. Keep working to develop a smooth panning technique and don't zoom in too close to subjects like BIF.Yesterday for example when I found that GBH in the weeds I knew from experience that he would likely take off. I zoomed in while in the weeds but after getting a few shots in the weeds I pulled back the zoom in anticipation of a launch. I probably would have missed the burst had I remained zoomed in as the whole burst was but a couple seconds long.Here's a few more from yesterdays kayaking. To add to the difficulty most of the shots I took were in a moving kayak which will tax any AF but I've found my M1X to handle those situations superbly! These three were consecutive shots from a two second burst. Every one was in focus.As one who shots a lot off my kayaks, these are very well captured. You and the Oly make a good pair.

Sactojim wrote:Hornsbee wrote:S Jones wrote:Hornsbee wrote:S Jones wrote:Hornsbee wrote:S Jones wrote:Just wondering if you have tried Thomas Stirr's method of using the Bird recognition with a single focus point? (Normal not small.)It is something I am trying out. So far so good but whether it is better than 5x5 points CAF remains to be determined.StephenHi, I haven't heard of Stirr and honestly what I'm doing works very well. I don't miss many shots so really no point at this time to change anything I'm doing. Perhaps I could share my technique with StrrrWell you can share it with me!A quick question - what do you have as your focus sensitivity setting?Most of the time -0- at times +1 or 3. For me that covers virtually everything I shoot. When I got my M1X I read the manual, in phases many times, stopping at each function and setting and then shooting with those settings over and over to get a feel for what an adjustment can do. It's like learning to play an instrument. In real world shooting you can't be wasting time readjusting settings imo. When I'm out shooting, for example yesterdays swamp visit, light changed every few seconds, subjects popped up out of nowhere, coming at me, over me, away from me, etc ., etc. backgrounds changed every time a I took a shot . It's impossible to compensate for all those situations.I do configure customs settings for the typical things I shoot but those will likely not help anyone unless they shoot in the same place at the same things at the same time of the day. I think the best thing for any wildlife shooter is to practice using every function on your camera and in different situations. I've found nothing better than to use your camera and as much as possible master the controls and technique. It takes a lot of work and I know perhaps 95% will never take control with their gear. Bottom line is practice, practice and practice.Thank you for your explanation.I am generally v happy with my set up and have custom C1-C4 and all the buttons set up in a way that works for me.My issue is that I have soft images in among sharp ones in a burst that I can not account for with anything that I am doing. I know that even the OM-1 misses in a burst I am just seeing if I can find ways of limiting them with my E-M1X. So I am looking at my settings with the sensitivity the one that I am going to experiment with. I thought I would get another opinion.Thanks again for your help and I hope you find another forum you are happy with when this one shuts.StephenI think it's difficult to determine the cause of intermittent soft images. Could be a number of things and trying to replicate the same conditions after resetting adjustments can be difficult. I found that the more my technique improved the better my photos and why I constantly try to improve it. Although I'm not in objection to seek guidance from others but I've always been a problem solver and my own best (or worst) critique. Keep working to develop a smooth panning technique and don't zoom in too close to subjects like BIF.Yesterday for example when I found that GBH in the weeds I knew from experience that he would likely take off. I zoomed in while in the weeds but after getting a few shots in the weeds I pulled back the zoom in anticipation of a launch. I probably would have missed the burst had I remained zoomed in as the whole burst was but a couple seconds long.Here's a few more from yesterdays kayaking. To add to the difficulty most of the shots I took were in a moving kayak which will tax any AF but I've found my M1X to handle those situations superbly! These three were consecutive shots from a two second burst. Every one was in focus.As one who shots a lot off my kayaks, these are very well captured. You and the Oly make a good pair.Thanks, Kayaking & canoeing  is a wonderful way to find wildlife. Although I've canoed since my youth I recently found a kayak, a sit inside,  which  suits me very well to not only carry my gear but also the stability etc.

I have 2 of em', use all the time

When out looking for critters in the desert southwest USA, I use 2 EM1Xs, one has the 300 f4, and the other has the 40-150 f2.8. No switching lenses in the dusty environment, also no muscle memory when switching cameras, both setup identical. Cheers!

RandallDunphy wrote:When out looking for critters in the desert southwest USA, I use 2 EM1Xs, one has the 300 f4, and the other has the 40-150 f2.8. No switching lenses in the dusty environment, also no muscle memory when switching cameras, both setup identical. Cheers!Hi Randall,We think alike. I've been waiting for a good deal on another M1X and patience finally paid off. Just bought a like new M1X with 6700 clicks.Cheers!