Can anyone tell me if the Fl-lm3 is compatible with the new OM-1.  OM Systems website is woeful - literally no details.  There is another thread with this title but it is about it being used as a trigger so doensn't actually answer my question.I'd like this flash as an every day one to carry with me but intend to do a flash course next year so will need a 'proper' flash then too.  A powered one that can be removed from the camera.  So, are there other makes that will work with the OM-1 but won't cost OM prices (looks pricey with commanders/ flash guns - not sure which bits I need to make a system...)I do have an old Nikon Speedlight - 600 I think - any chance that coudl be made to work with the OM-1?I know nothing about flash yet (hence the need for the course) so be gentle with your replies and explain any techie-ness if poss!

If that's the flash that came free with the em1-mk2 then yes it does work with the OM-1. I have both cameras and that tiny flash is superb.

In the States it is included with the OM-1. Works fully, as with the E-M1 series.Cheers,Rick

Although the FL-LM3 will work with the OM-1 it is not much more powerful than a built-in flash and can only tilt, not swivel so probably not sophisticated enough to use on a course.I would recommend looking at the Godox range (also sold as Flashpoint in the USA) as the basis of a system. It has reasonably priced triggers and flashes from the small TT350o up to big studio strobes. The great thing about the system is that, if you change or add a different camera brand,  all you need to add is a new trigger and perhaps one flash for on camera work as the flashes are brand-agnostic when used off-camera. The triggers aren't strictly necessary as the flashes can act as triggers but aren't as easy to use as the dedicated units.Your Nikon flash will probably work in full manual and auto mode but it's a good idea to tape up all but the centre contact to make sure there's no unwanted interactions.

Snapsh0t wrote:Although the FL-LM3 will work with the OM-1 it is not much more powerful than a built-in flash and can only tilt,not swivelso probably not sophisticated enough to use on a course.I would recommend looking at the Godox range (also sold as Flashpoint in the USA) as the basis of a system. It has reasonably priced triggers and flashes from the small TT350o up to big studio strobes. The great thing about the system is that, if you change or add a different camera brand, all you need to add is a new trigger and perhaps one flash for on camera work as the flashes are brand-agnostic when used off-camera. The triggers aren't strictly necessary as the flashes can act as triggers but aren't as easy to use as the dedicated units.Your Nikon flash will probably work in full manual and auto mode but it's a good idea to tape up all but the centre contact to make sure there's no unwanted interactions.It can swivel.....!

Can it? I must have another look at mine. Still can't escape the low GN though.

Snapsh0t wrote:Can it? I must have another look at mine. Still can't escape the low GN though.Mine can swivel too.I’d say you need an off camera flash with a trigger to take full advantage of a course.  More power and a built-in diffuser would also be a plus.Still the FL-LM3 is a handy accessory.Andrew

Don't spend big money yet, certainly not until you either know what you want, or fully understand what your needs will be.I consider I did it all wrong a d wasted many hundreds of pounds/dollars.I originally bought expensive dedicated flashguns, but now they just sit in the drawer.Currently I keep the tiny  Fl-lm3 in my pocket, it's a terrific little unit and covers 90% of my flash needs - people and macro.For complex multi-flash setups (eg. large interiors or tractors/trains at night) I now use a camera mounted radio trigger and radio receivers on as many MANUAL flashes as required.I have acquired a whole drawer full of old manual flashguns for just a few pounds/dollars each.  No one wants them and they are almost free on ebay and in camera shops.The best ones have control levers/knobs to adjust flash power.  So simple nothing to go wrong. And a set of 4 basic radio trigger receivers cost very little.Anyway, those are my requirements satisfied.PS. I do functions and presentations, but refuse weddings.Don't over think it.Best wishes.

Adrian Harris wrote:Don't spend big money yet, certainly not until you either know what you want, or fully understand what your needs will be.I consider I did it all wrong a d wasted many hundreds of pounds/dollars.I originally bought expensive dedicated flashguns, but now they just sit in the drawer.Currently I keep the tiny Fl-lm3 in my pocket, it's a terrific little unit and covers 90% of my flash needs - people and macro.For complex multi-flash setups (eg. large interiors or tractors/trains at night) I now use a camera mounted radio trigger and radio receivers on as many MANUAL flashes as required.I have acquired a whole drawer full of old manual flashguns for just a few pounds/dollars each. No one wants them and they are almost free on ebay and in camera shops.The best ones have control levers/knobs to adjust flash power. So simple nothing to go wrong. And a set of 4 basic radio trigger receivers cost very little.Anyway, those are my requirements satisfied.PS. I do functions and presentations, but refuse weddings.Don't over think it.Best wishes.I think you can learn a lot by using the Internet and the FL-LM3, not least because it is always with you.I bought a wireless Nissin and Air controller.  About GN50 I think.  Never needed to add extra units.If spending money on a course, I'd buy more than the FL-LM3.Andrew

Snapsh0t wrote:Can it? I must have another look at mine. Still can't escape the low GN though.It’s heaps more powerful than the built in flash of the om-1.

Very true!It's handy for fill, when shooting outdoor portraits and such.Have accumulated a small pile of them, coming with various cameras over the years. A flash for every bag.cheers,Rick

Yes, the FL-LM3 is compatible with the OM-1. Evidently different regions in the world include the FL-LM3 or not with the OM-1. When I bought my OM-1 with delivery last June, it included the FL-LM3.If you wanted to move the flash off the camera, you can use a flash extension cord for Canon cameras as the pinout is the same for most Canon flash as with the FL-LM3 (basically center point, 4 points around the edges and a connection on the side).In terms of the Nikon flash, maybe it will work, maybe not. If the flash can be used as a generic flash and it was made in the last decade or two, you can use it as a manual flash.  Not all flashes can be used as a manual flash.  . For manual flashes, you will need to learn how to set the flash power and aperture, etc. on the OM-1.  Fortunately with digital cameras, you can take pictures and look at the histogram to see if it is properly exposed.  In the film days, you needed to learn to use a light meter to adjust the flash (and/or use the guide number and hope for the best).In addition to pure manual flash and flash using the camera's TTL (through the lens) system, there is a 3rd type of flash that was popular back in the film era. This is called 'auto'. Basically you set the camera's ISO and aperture to correspond to the settings on the flash. The flash has a light sensor that it will shut off the light when it sees the reflection from the walls behind the subject and it is exposed adequately. This works in many situations, but there are situations (like shooting outside) where it doesn't work. However, it is simpler in the cases it works than using manual flashes. Note, auto flash capability has been removed from many third party flashes.Just to be cautious, the reason I said the flash needed to have been made in the last decade or two, is older flashes made in the 1970's and mabye 1980's and 1990's could put the entire charge through the flash hot-shoe or pc-sync cable. Newer flashes designed for cameras with electronic focusing and such were modified to put a much smaller voltage through the hot-shoe or pc-sync cable. The OM-1 is protected to 250 volts in the pc-sync port and I believe the hot-shoe. IIRC, there were some historic flashes that put a even more than 250 volts through the hot-shoe.For flashes that aren't manual flashes, you might want to look at Godox. They have a line of flashes that are compatible with Olympus, OM, and Panasonic cameras. They support radio triggers, and you can use multiple flashes if you want to use them. The photo store Adorama sells Flashpoint flashes and radio triggers that are made by Godox and just use the Flashpoint name (i.e. they are compatible).One note about Godox/Flashpoint, I had a smaller Flashpoint flash. I didn't use it for several months, and when I tried to use it again, the flash would not charge up. So just rotate the batteries every so often and also turn on the flash, and fire a few test shots to make sure the internal capacitor is still able to hold a charge.Note, Godox/Flashpoint and the other Olympus, OM, and Panasonic compatible flashes (i.e. Nissan, etc.) are not splash resistant. To be splash resistant, you need an Olympus FL-900R or FL-700WR flash. The FL-LM3 is splash resistant.For TTL flashes, the camera fires a pre-flash to figure out the appropriate settings and then it does the main flash.  There are some people with a fast enough blink reflex that they always have their eyes closed when you use a TTL flash.

Michael Meissner wrote:Yes, the FL-LM3 is compatible with the OM-1. Evidently different regions in the world include the FL-LM3 or not with the OM-1. When I bought my OM-1 with delivery last June, it included the FL-LM3.If you wanted to move the flash off the camera, you can use a flash extension cord for Canon cameras as the pinout is the same for most Canon flash as with the FL-LM3 (basically center point, 4 points around the edges and a connection on the side).In terms of the Nikon flash, maybe it will work, maybe not. If the flash can be used as a generic flash and it was made in the last decade or two, you can use it as a manual flash. Not all flashes can be used as a manual flash. . For manual flashes, you will need to learn how to set the flash power and aperture, etc. on the OM-1. Fortunately with digital cameras, you can take pictures and look at the histogram to see if it is properly exposed. In the film days, you needed to learn to use a light meter to adjust the flash (and/or use the guide number and hope for the best).In addition to pure manual flash and flash using the camera's TTL (through the lens) system, there is a 3rd type of flash that was popular back in the film era. This is called 'auto'. Basically you set the camera's ISO and aperture to correspond to the settings on the flash. The flash has a light sensor that it will shut off the light when it sees the reflection from the walls behind the subject and it is exposed adequately. This works in many situations, but there are situations (like shooting outside) where it doesn't work. However, it is simpler in the cases it works than using manual flashes. Note, auto flash capability has been removed from many third party flashes.Just to be cautious, the reason I said the flash needed to have been made in the last decade or two, is older flashes made in the 1970's and mabye 1980's and 1990's could put the entire charge through the flash hot-shoe or pc-sync cable. Newer flashes designed for cameras with electronic focusing and such were modified to put a much smaller voltage through the hot-shoe or pc-sync cable. The OM-1 is protected to 250 volts in the pc-sync port and I believe the hot-shoe. IIRC, there were some historic flashes that put a even more than 250 volts through the hot-shoe.For flashes that aren't manual flashes, you might want to look at Godox. They have a line of flashes that are compatible with Olympus, OM, and Panasonic cameras. They support radio triggers, and you can use multiple flashes if you want to use them. The photo store Adorama sells Flashpoint flashes and radio triggers that are made by Godox and just use the Flashpoint name (i.e. they are compatible).One note about Godox/Flashpoint, I had a smaller Flashpoint flash. I didn't use it for several months, and when I tried to use it again, the flash would not charge up. So just rotate the batteries every so often and also turn on the flash, and fire a few test shots to make sure the internal capacitor is still able to hold a charge.Note, Godox/Flashpoint and the other Olympus, OM, and Panasonic compatible flashes (i.e. Nissan, etc.) are not splash resistant. To be splash resistant, you need an Olympus FL-900R or FL-700WR flash. The FL-LM3 is splash resistant.For TTL flashes, the camera fires a pre-flash to figure out the appropriate settings and then it does the main flash. There are some people with a fast enough blink reflex that they always have their eyes closed when you use a TTL flash.Cheeky question before they pull the plug on us here if you don’t mind, you stated here “If you wanted to move the flash off the camera, you can use a flash extension cord”could I ask if you have actuality successfully done this please? as it didn’t work when I tried it. I tried two different “universal” flash extension cords from eBay in the past and neither worked with the FL-LM3 attached to e-m1-II but they worked ok with other flash units (ie ones with batteries) so have assumed it was a power problem. I even did pin to pin check with multimeter thinking it was probably due to poor quality cables but all seemed to check out ok.I really like this little flash unit it would save me lugging around full size unit, if you can confirm that it actually worked for you it would definitely be worth me giving it another go with yet another cable.thanksMick

Yes very good warning regarding danger of using very old flashes, they should not be directly connected to the camera.That's why I trigger all mine with inexpensive radio triggers.  I think it was around £25 for a set of 4.

Confreg 0x2101 wrote:Michael Meissner wrote:Yes, the FL-LM3 is compatible with the OM-1. Evidently different regions in the world include the FL-LM3 or not with the OM-1. When I bought my OM-1 with delivery last June, it included the FL-LM3.If you wanted to move the flash off the camera, you can use a flash extension cord for Canon cameras as the pinout is the same for most Canon flash as with the FL-LM3 (basically center point, 4 points around the edges and a connection on the side).In terms of the Nikon flash, maybe it will work, maybe not. If the flash can be used as a generic flash and it was made in the last decade or two, you can use it as a manual flash. Not all flashes can be used as a manual flash. . For manual flashes, you will need to learn how to set the flash power and aperture, etc. on the OM-1. Fortunately with digital cameras, you can take pictures and look at the histogram to see if it is properly exposed. In the film days, you needed to learn to use a light meter to adjust the flash (and/or use the guide number and hope for the best).In addition to pure manual flash and flash using the camera's TTL (through the lens) system, there is a 3rd type of flash that was popular back in the film era. This is called 'auto'. Basically you set the camera's ISO and aperture to correspond to the settings on the flash. The flash has a light sensor that it will shut off the light when it sees the reflection from the walls behind the subject and it is exposed adequately. This works in many situations, but there are situations (like shooting outside) where it doesn't work. However, it is simpler in the cases it works than using manual flashes. Note, auto flash capability has been removed from many third party flashes.Just to be cautious, the reason I said the flash needed to have been made in the last decade or two, is older flashes made in the 1970's and mabye 1980's and 1990's could put the entire charge through the flash hot-shoe or pc-sync cable. Newer flashes designed for cameras with electronic focusing and such were modified to put a much smaller voltage through the hot-shoe or pc-sync cable. The OM-1 is protected to 250 volts in the pc-sync port and I believe the hot-shoe. IIRC, there were some historic flashes that put a even more than 250 volts through the hot-shoe.For flashes that aren't manual flashes, you might want to look at Godox. They have a line of flashes that are compatible with Olympus, OM, and Panasonic cameras. They support radio triggers, and you can use multiple flashes if you want to use them. The photo store Adorama sells Flashpoint flashes and radio triggers that are made by Godox and just use the Flashpoint name (i.e. they are compatible).One note about Godox/Flashpoint, I had a smaller Flashpoint flash. I didn't use it for several months, and when I tried to use it again, the flash would not charge up. So just rotate the batteries every so often and also turn on the flash, and fire a few test shots to make sure the internal capacitor is still able to hold a charge.Note, Godox/Flashpoint and the other Olympus, OM, and Panasonic compatible flashes (i.e. Nissan, etc.) are not splash resistant. To be splash resistant, you need an Olympus FL-900R or FL-700WR flash. The FL-LM3 is splash resistant.For TTL flashes, the camera fires a pre-flash to figure out the appropriate settings and then it does the main flash. There are some people with a fast enough blink reflex that they always have their eyes closed when you use a TTL flash.Cheeky question before they pull the plug on us here if you don’t mind, you stated here “If you wanted to move the flash off the camera, you can use a flash extension cord”could I ask if you have actuality successfully done this please? as it didn’t work when I tried it. I tried two different “universal” flash extension cords from eBay in the past and neither worked with the FL-LM3 attached to e-m1-II but they worked ok with other flash units (ie ones with batteries) so have assumed it was a power problem. I even did pin to pin check with multimeter thinking it was probably due to poor quality cables but all seemed to check out ok.Yes I have used an extension cord with the fl-lm3, but not the Panasonic lead. I think it was possibly a Canon lead as it has an extra pin.Battery powered flashes work with the Panasonic lead, but it doesn't have the necessary extra power pin for charging the fl-lm3.I really like this little flash unit it would save me lugging around full size unit, if you can confirm that it actually worked for you it would definitely be worth me giving it another go with yet another cable.thanksMick

Confreg 0x2101 wrote:could I ask if you have actuality successfully done this please? as it didn’t work when I tried it. I tried two different “universal” flash extension cords from eBay in the past and neither worked with the FL-LM3 attached to e-m1-II but they worked ok with other flash units (ie ones with batteries) so have assumed it was a power problem.I just tried the FL-LM3 with the Vello Olympus extension cable  (OCS-OP311) on the OM-1, and it didNOTwork, so I agree with you that it is probably a power problem.

cc99 wrote:Confreg 0x2101 wrote:could I ask if you have actuality successfully done this please? as it didn’t work when I tried it. I tried two different “universal” flash extension cords from eBay in the past and neither worked with the FL-LM3 attached to e-m1-II but they worked ok with other flash units (ie ones with batteries) so have assumed it was a power problem.I just tried the FL-LM3 with the Vello Olympus extension cable (OCS-OP311) on the OM-1, and it didNOTwork, so I agree with you that it is probably a power problem.No, the issue is the old Olympus flash-pin out had the center pin, 3 pins on the outside, and the pin on the side.  That works for battery powered flashes.  However, the FL-LM3 does not have a battery in it, so when the E-m5 mark II came out with the FL-LM3, it added another contact point that provides power to the flash.The Canon cables have always had the center pin, 4 pins on the outside and the side pin.  So if you use a Canon flash cable in theory it should work.  But if you use a flash cable designed for Olympus cameras, it won't work.Now, I actually bought a set of Canon flash extension cords, but they arrived broken (it was too much work to send it back in given the price I had paid for the cable), so I've never moved the flash off of the camera.  I keep meaning to buy another cable, but I keep finding other things to spend money on.

Adrian Harris wrote:Confreg 0x2101 wrote:Michael Meissner wrote:Yes, the FL-LM3 is compatible with the OM-1. Evidently different regions in the world include the FL-LM3 or not with the OM-1. When I bought my OM-1 with delivery last June, it included the FL-LM3.If you wanted to move the flash off the camera, you can use a flash extension cord for Canon cameras as the pinout is the same for most Canon flash as with the FL-LM3 (basically center point, 4 points around the edges and a connection on the side).In terms of the Nikon flash, maybe it will work, maybe not. If the flash can be used as a generic flash and it was made in the last decade or two, you can use it as a manual flash. Not all flashes can be used as a manual flash. . For manual flashes, you will need to learn how to set the flash power and aperture, etc. on the OM-1. Fortunately with digital cameras, you can take pictures and look at the histogram to see if it is properly exposed. In the film days, you needed to learn to use a light meter to adjust the flash (and/or use the guide number and hope for the best).In addition to pure manual flash and flash using the camera's TTL (through the lens) system, there is a 3rd type of flash that was popular back in the film era. This is called 'auto'. Basically you set the camera's ISO and aperture to correspond to the settings on the flash. The flash has a light sensor that it will shut off the light when it sees the reflection from the walls behind the subject and it is exposed adequately. This works in many situations, but there are situations (like shooting outside) where it doesn't work. However, it is simpler in the cases it works than using manual flashes. Note, auto flash capability has been removed from many third party flashes.Just to be cautious, the reason I said the flash needed to have been made in the last decade or two, is older flashes made in the 1970's and mabye 1980's and 1990's could put the entire charge through the flash hot-shoe or pc-sync cable. Newer flashes designed for cameras with electronic focusing and such were modified to put a much smaller voltage through the hot-shoe or pc-sync cable. The OM-1 is protected to 250 volts in the pc-sync port and I believe the hot-shoe. IIRC, there were some historic flashes that put a even more than 250 volts through the hot-shoe.For flashes that aren't manual flashes, you might want to look at Godox. They have a line of flashes that are compatible with Olympus, OM, and Panasonic cameras. They support radio triggers, and you can use multiple flashes if you want to use them. The photo store Adorama sells Flashpoint flashes and radio triggers that are made by Godox and just use the Flashpoint name (i.e. they are compatible).One note about Godox/Flashpoint, I had a smaller Flashpoint flash. I didn't use it for several months, and when I tried to use it again, the flash would not charge up. So just rotate the batteries every so often and also turn on the flash, and fire a few test shots to make sure the internal capacitor is still able to hold a charge.Note, Godox/Flashpoint and the other Olympus, OM, and Panasonic compatible flashes (i.e. Nissan, etc.) are not splash resistant. To be splash resistant, you need an Olympus FL-900R or FL-700WR flash. The FL-LM3 is splash resistant.For TTL flashes, the camera fires a pre-flash to figure out the appropriate settings and then it does the main flash. There are some people with a fast enough blink reflex that they always have their eyes closed when you use a TTL flash.Cheeky question before they pull the plug on us here if you don’t mind, you stated here “If you wanted to move the flash off the camera, you can use a flash extension cord”could I ask if you have actuality successfully done this please? as it didn’t work when I tried it. I tried two different “universal” flash extension cords from eBay in the past and neither worked with the FL-LM3 attached to e-m1-II but they worked ok with other flash units (ie ones with batteries) so have assumed it was a power problem. I even did pin to pin check with multimeter thinking it was probably due to poor quality cables but all seemed to check out ok.Yes I have used an extension cord with the fl-lm3, but not the Panasonic lead. I think it was possibly a Canon lead as it has an extra pin.Battery powered flashes work with the Panasonic lead, but it doesn't have the necessary extra power pin for charging the fl-lm3.I really like this little flash unit it would save me lugging around full size unit, if you can confirm that it actually worked for you it would definitely be worth me giving it another go with yet another cable.thanksMickGreat that’s good to know, thanks

cc99 wrote:Confreg 0x2101 wrote:could I ask if you have actuality successfully done this please? as it didn’t work when I tried it. I tried two different “universal” flash extension cords from eBay in the past and neither worked with the FL-LM3 attached to e-m1-II but they worked ok with other flash units (ie ones with batteries) so have assumed it was a power problem.I just tried the FL-LM3 with the Vello Olympus extension cable (OCS-OP311) on the OM-1, and it didNOTwork, so I agree with you that it is probably a power problem.Ok same result as me, thanks for taking the time to test it out, it looks like others are suggesting it only works with the Canon extension cable not Olympus or Panasonic?

Michael Meissner wrote:cc99 wrote:Confreg 0x2101 wrote:could I ask if you have actuality successfully done this please? as it didn’t work when I tried it. I tried two different “universal” flash extension cords from eBay in the past and neither worked with the FL-LM3 attached to e-m1-II but they worked ok with other flash units (ie ones with batteries) so have assumed it was a power problem.I just tried the FL-LM3 with the Vello Olympus extension cable (OCS-OP311) on the OM-1, and it didNOTwork, so I agree with you that it is probably a power problem.No, the issue is the old Olympus flash-pin out had the center pin, 3 pins on the outside, and the pin on the side. That works for battery powered flashes. However, the FL-LM3 does not have a battery in it, so when the E-m5 mark II came out with the FL-LM3, it added another contact point that provides power to the flash.The Canon cables have always had the center pin, 4 pins on the outside and the side pin. So if you use a Canon flash cable in theory it should work. But if you use a flash cable designed for Olympus cameras, it won't work.Now, I actually bought a set of Canon flash extension cords, but they arrived broken (it was too much work to send it back in given the price I had paid for the cable), so I've never moved the flash off of the camera. I keep meaning to buy another cable, but I keep finding other things to spend money on.thanks for the clarification much appreciated