Hi, I recently got an om-de-m5 Mkiii, have never used Olympus or four thirds camera before. I'm wondering if the Olympus has a setting similar to active d lighting on a Nikon, If so how to get to it? I feel like I have scoured the menu system looking.I've been very Nikon centric for the last couple decades. I frequently don't use ADL, but on the times I shoot purely in jpeg I find it a useful option to have turned on.

Do you mean an AF lamp? If so it's called "AF Illuminator" and should be in the A3 menu (assuming it's like the E-M1iii).Cheers,Rick

Check out Rob Trek's videos on You Tube. I've found them very infomational when I move to Olympus.Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark III: Video Menu Settings Walk Through for Beginners ep.236 - YouTube

Neoflare wrote:Hi, I recently got an om-de-m5 Mkiii, have never used Olympus or four thirds camera before. I'm wondering if the Olympus has a setting similar to active d lighting on a Nikon, If so how to get to it? I feel like I have scoured the menu system looking.I've been very Nikon centric for the last couple decades. I frequently don't use ADL, but on the times I shoot purely in jpeg I find it a useful option to have turned on.Might be worth explaining a bit about ADL as many of us OMDS "experts" are not Nikophiles and  have no idea what ADL is and lack the wherewithal to research it.

Check out the gradation setting, though I find Oly jpegs to be quite good in this regard and the default 'Normal' setting is probably doing what you're asking for. 'Auto' will even out the exposure by boosting the shadows and pulling back the highlights (someone correct me if I'm wrong).You could also do it manually with highlight/shadow control on camera.I highly suggest taking a bunch of shots on default setting and opening them in OM workspace. You can play around with all of the in camera settings from the comfort of your computer and find what works best for your shooting situations.

Bassam Guy wrote:Neoflare wrote:Hi, I recently got an om-de-m5 Mkiii, have never used Olympus or four thirds camera before. I'm wondering if the Olympus has a setting similar to active d lighting on a Nikon, If so how to get to it? I feel like I have scoured the menu system looking.I've been very Nikon centric for the last couple decades. I frequently don't use ADL, but on the times I shoot purely in jpeg I find it a useful option to have turned on.Might be worth explaining a bit about ADL as many of us OMDS "experts" are not Nikophiles and have no idea what ADL is and lack the wherewithal to research it.it was a simple google search for me:https://www.nikonusa.com/en/learn-and-explore/a/products-and-innovation/active-d-lighting.html

Neoflare wrote:I'm wondering if the Olympus has a setting similar to active d lighting on a Nikon, If so how to get to it?I'm pretty new to the camera myself, and I don't think it has a direct analogue to active d-lighting. The closest suggestion I have so far is to adjust the Highlight&Shadow tone curve in the quick control panel. Hit the OK button while shooting, then go down near the bottom right hand corner of the options to find the tone curve (default shape is a straight line from bottom left to top right- it's the icon directly above the cog-shaped Button Function option.If you push the shadows up and/or bring the highlights down it will serve a similar purpose to the Active D-Lighting feature in terms of squeezing more dynamic range into a .jpeg.

HDR?

Neoflare wrote:Hi, I recently got an om-de-m5 Mkiii, have never used Olympus or four thirds camera before. I'm wondering if the Olympus has a setting similar to active d lighting on a Nikon, If so how to get to it? I feel like I have scoured the menu system looking.I've been very Nikon centric for the last couple decades. I frequently don't use ADL, but on the times I shoot purely in jpeg I find it a useful option to have turned on.You can use Auto Gradation or i-Enhance picture modes.See this article for an explanation:https://www.wrotniak.net/photo/m43/em1.2-picmode.html

generationfourth wrote:Bassam Guy wrote:Neoflare wrote:Hi, I recently got an om-de-m5 Mkiii, have never used Olympus or four thirds camera before. I'm wondering if the Olympus has a setting similar to active d lighting on a Nikon, If so how to get to it? I feel like I have scoured the menu system looking.I've been very Nikon centric for the last couple decades. I frequently don't use ADL, but on the times I shoot purely in jpeg I find it a useful option to have turned on.Might be worth explaining a bit about ADL as many of us OMDS "experts" are not Nikophiles and have no idea what ADL is and lack the wherewithal to research it.it was a simple google search for me:https://www.nikonusa.com/en/learn-and-explore/a/products-and-innovation/active-d-lighting.htmlAnd a just as simple paste from the above site:"Active D-Lighting optimizes high contrast images to restore the shadow and highlight details that are often lost when strong lighting increases the contrast between bright and dark areas of an image. It can be set to operate automatically or manually, and it's also possible to bracket pictures to get one with Active D-Lighting and one without."

Neoflare wrote:Hi, I recently got an om-de-m5 Mkiii, have never used Olympus or four thirds camera before. I'm wondering if the Olympus has a setting similar to active d lighting on a Nikon, If so how to get to it? I feel like I have scoured the menu system looking.I've been very Nikon centric for the last couple decades. I frequently don't use ADL, but on the times I shoot purely in jpeg I find it a useful option to have turned on.Not being familiar with Nikon system or features, the link in a prior post, with the Nikon explanation helped understand what you're looking for. As generationfourth noted 'gradation' might be the closest similar feature. It also is intended to work with High Dymanic/High Contrast images. Olympus explained it saying when in 'Auto' the camera will consider 'zones' within the image area and modify the tonal range to accommodate for extreme highlights and/or shadows. Like an extremely sunny sky in the same image with deep/darker forest/trees/whatever, might be outside of the Dynamic range on both sides of the exposure. AUTO Grad changes the 'Sky' curve and the Forest curve to place them more into the range to be used with the exposure set. I've found that it's not just for 2 zonal blocks, but does work for images which have quite a few such regions in the image. It's not a Big miracle, just a minor one... since it can't completely recover burned or blocked areas. But it's pretty good. Also, this affects ONLY JPEG, not RAW, obviously (should be the same for Nikon ADL). BUT, if you're using Olympus Workspace to convert your RAWs - if you've set the Grad to AUTO, when you bring the image into WS (Workspace) , it automatically applies the Auto Grad. You CAN easily change/modify the 'Gradation' in WOrkspace to any of the other settings which are available in-camera. Same if you use NORMAL or any of the KEY settings. 'Gradation' is also available in the Super Control Panel - right hand edge, 3 blocks down. And 3 further blocks down is a gross tone curve adjustment - done with the adjustment wheels. I also find that when using a Higher ISO, when some luminosity noise develops, AUTO Grad helps keep the noise from being 'dirty'/dark (which can happen when using 'Normal'); especially for very specific lighter coloring, like skin tones. I use both Auto Grad and Normal and will vary depending on how I want the image to present. Play with it and see what you get... Again, this ONLY affects JPG. If you use it and shoot RAW and bring it into another RAW Converter - that setting may have no effect and the image will be shown as a normal RAW. Only way to know is shoot an image both ways, same exposure, and then compare when they're RAW converted, best not to make any other adjustments which might affect the shown difference. Thx Yuri

OldGuy-Yuri wrote:Neoflare wrote:Hi, I recently got an om-de-m5 Mkiii, have never used Olympus or four thirds camera before. I'm wondering if the Olympus has a setting similar to active d lighting on a Nikon, If so how to get to it? I feel like I have scoured the menu system looking.I've been very Nikon centric for the last couple decades. I frequently don't use ADL, but on the times I shoot purely in jpeg I find it a useful option to have turned on.Not being familiar with Nikon system or features, the link in a prior post, with the Nikon explanation helped understand what you're looking for. As generationfourth noted 'gradation' might be the closest similar feature. It also is intended to work with High Dymanic/High Contrast images. Olympus explained it saying when in 'Auto' the camera will consider 'zones' within the image area and modify the tonal range to accommodate for extreme highlights and/or shadows. Like an extremely sunny sky in the same image with deep/darker forest/trees/whatever, might be outside of the Dynamic range on both sides of the exposure. AUTO Grad changes the 'Sky' curve and the Forest curve to place them more into the range to be used with the exposure set. I've found that it's not just for 2 zonal blocks, but does work for images which have quite a few such regions in the image. It's not a Big miracle, just a minor one... since it can't completely recover burned or blocked areas. But it's pretty good. Also, this affects ONLY JPEG, not RAW, obviously (should be the same for Nikon ADL). BUT, if you're using Olympus Workspace to convert your RAWs - if you've set the Grad to AUTO, when you bring the image into WS (Workspace) , it automatically applies the Auto Grad. You CAN easily change/modify the 'Gradation' in WOrkspace to any of the other settings which are available in-camera. Same if you use NORMAL or any of the KEY settings. 'Gradation' is also available in the Super Control Panel - right hand edge, 3 blocks down. And 3 further blocks down is a gross tone curve adjustment - done with the adjustment wheels. I also find that when using a Higher ISO, when some luminosity noise develops, AUTO Grad helps keep the noise from being 'dirty'/dark (which can happen when using 'Normal'); especially for very specific lighter coloring, like skin tones. I use both Auto Grad and Normal and will vary depending on how I want the image to present. Play with it and see what you get... Again, this ONLY affects JPG. If you use it and shoot RAW and bring it into another RAW Converter - that setting may have no effect and the image will be shown as a normal RAW. Only way to know is shoot an image both ways, same exposure, and then compare when they're RAW converted, best not to make any other adjustments which might affect the shown difference. Thx YuriThank you for the very comprehensive response. I shoot in raw about 80% of the time. Most frequently I shoot raw+jpeg, but only turn active d lighting one when shooting jpeg only because it affects metering (which I'm assuming is the same on the Olympus)I chose an Olympus so I don't have to take my large heavy camera bag everywhere with me. Plus I'd never shot a four thirds camera before and wanted to try one out, plus it's my first mirrorless and I wasn't potentially ready to upgrade my main gear yet.I've just been trying to wrap my now middle aged head around it and getting a handle on the settings (I've exclusively shot Nikon since 94). For the life of me, I couldn't work it out with either the manual or Google. It does seem like gradation is the setting, now that I've had more of a chance to play around with the camera.What I have discovered I love about mirrorless is the ability to operate the whole camera without needing to leave the view finder.

Neoflare wrote:OldGuy-Yuri wrote:Neoflare wrote:Hi, I recently got an om-de-m5 Mkiii, have never used Olympus or four thirds camera before. I'm wondering if the Olympus has a setting similar to active d lighting on a Nikon, If so how to get to it? I feel like I have scoured the menu system looking.I've been very Nikon centric for the last couple decades. I frequently don't use ADL, but on the times I shoot purely in jpeg I find it a useful option to have turned on.Not being familiar with Nikon system or features, the link in a prior post, with the Nikon explanation helped understand what you're looking for. As generationfourth noted 'gradation' might be the closest similar feature. It also is intended to work with High Dymanic/High Contrast images. Olympus explained it saying when in 'Auto' the camera will consider 'zones' within the image area and modify the tonal range to accommodate for extreme highlights and/or shadows. Like an extremely sunny sky in the same image with deep/darker forest/trees/whatever, might be outside of the Dynamic range on both sides of the exposure. AUTO Grad changes the 'Sky' curve and the Forest curve to place them more into the range to be used with the exposure set. I've found that it's not just for 2 zonal blocks, but does work for images which have quite a few such regions in the image. It's not a Big miracle, just a minor one... since it can't completely recover burned or blocked areas. But it's pretty good. Also, this affects ONLY JPEG, not RAW, obviously (should be the same for Nikon ADL). BUT, if you're using Olympus Workspace to convert your RAWs - if you've set the Grad to AUTO, when you bring the image into WS (Workspace) , it automatically applies the Auto Grad. You CAN easily change/modify the 'Gradation' in WOrkspace to any of the other settings which are available in-camera. Same if you use NORMAL or any of the KEY settings. 'Gradation' is also available in the Super Control Panel - right hand edge, 3 blocks down. And 3 further blocks down is a gross tone curve adjustment - done with the adjustment wheels. I also find that when using a Higher ISO, when some luminosity noise develops, AUTO Grad helps keep the noise from being 'dirty'/dark (which can happen when using 'Normal'); especially for very specific lighter coloring, like skin tones. I use both Auto Grad and Normal and will vary depending on how I want the image to present. Play with it and see what you get... Again, this ONLY affects JPG. If you use it and shoot RAW and bring it into another RAW Converter - that setting may have no effect and the image will be shown as a normal RAW. Only way to know is shoot an image both ways, same exposure, and then compare when they're RAW converted, best not to make any other adjustments which might affect the shown difference. Thx YuriThank you for the very comprehensive response. I shoot in raw about 80% of the time. Most frequently I shoot raw+jpeg, but only turn active d lighting one when shooting jpeg only because it affects metering (which I'm assuming is the same on the Olympus)I chose an Olympus so I don't have to take my large heavy camera bag everywhere with me. Plus I'd never shot a four thirds camera before and wanted to try one out, plus it's my first mirrorless and I wasn't potentially ready to upgrade my main gear yet.I've just been trying to wrap my now middle aged head around it and getting a handle on the settings (I've exclusively shot Nikon since 94). For the life of me, I couldn't work it out with either the manual or Google. It does seem like gradation is the setting, now that I've had more of a chance to play around with the camera.What I have discovered I love about mirrorless is the ability to operate the whole camera without needing to leave the view finder.Oly Manual is good as a listing resource, when you know what you're looking for...  LOL! Otherwise, a lot of good resources on web, especially Youtube. Other resources I like, Robin WOng blogspot & Videos, Rob Trek, Peter Forsgard and more. Also dependent on what you like to image. Robin Wong has a 'Cheat Sheet' for Oly cameras which is a starting point. I don;t agree with everything, especially his take on Gradation and some other things, but that's personal use. But he's definitely worth reading/watching. The SUPER CONTROL PANEL, if you haven;t yet familiarized yourself with is, is an awesome tool/interface.  To be able to use needs some configuration in menus. Not difficult just not apparent. Plenty of links for how to get this done..Here, DPreview and DP review forums is an awesome resource, if you care to filter the noise from the signal; but it's worth it. When DPR shuts down, I'll be mainly on micro43.org, DPrevived.com, MU-43.com and bcgforums.com (outdoor oriented), also visit 43rumors occasionally. Thinking of moving from my EM-5ii to the EM-5iii to mate with my EM-1iii. I really like the EM5 form factor for long and multi-days in the outdoors... I also think you can;t get better lenses for this kind of photo, both Oly and Pany... Every lens, not just the Pro grade stuff. Welcome to M43, hope to see some of your images (on any other sites you might join after this folds ...) Thx Yuri