Thanks Teodolph,I will probably do the same.Cheers,Orest

Seattle Myck wrote:Have you determined yet if it will also work with the Oly 30 mm macro?I can't personally confirm, but the thread I linked above claims that you can't fill the frame with the 30mm macro.

Thanks Gentzel,I did see that too. But I also noticed a comment somewhere that the thumbscrew adjustment on the tube next to the LED which allows tilt adjustment also allows for some adjustment along the axis of the lens. I guess what I was trying to find out or hoping for is that lateral adjustment is sufficient to fill the frame?Mack

Seattle Myck wrote:Thanks Gentzel,I did see that too. But I also noticed a comment somewhere that the thumbscrew adjustment on the tube next to the LED which allows tilt adjustment also allows for some adjustment along the axis of the lens. I guess what I was trying to find out or hoping for is that lateral adjustment is sufficient to fill the frame?MackIf someone would hold a slide in front of the 30mm, fill the frame, and measure the distance from the front of the lens barrel, that could be combined with themeasurements from my previous post.Plus length adjustments can be made by using the included step-ups and step-downs, plus your own step-ups and step downs (and filters).

mchnz wrote:Seattle Myck wrote:Thanks Gentzel,I did see that too. But I also noticed a comment somewhere that the thumbscrew adjustment on the tube next to the LED which allows tilt adjustment also allows for some adjustment along the axis of the lens. I guess what I was trying to find out or hoping for is that lateral adjustment is sufficient to fill the frame?MackIf someone would hold a slide in front of the 30mm, fill the frame, and measure the distance from the front of the lens barrel, that could be combined with themeasurements from my previous post.Plus length adjustments can be made by using the included step-ups and step-downs, plus your own step-ups and step downs (and filters).Somewhere between 57-59mm from the film plane to from of the lens barrel, depending.

tammons wrote:mchnz wrote:Seattle Myck wrote:Thanks Gentzel,I did see that too. But I also noticed a comment somewhere that the thumbscrew adjustment on the tube next to the LED which allows tilt adjustment also allows for some adjustment along the axis of the lens. I guess what I was trying to find out or hoping for is that lateral adjustment is sufficient to fill the frame?MackIf someone would hold a slide in front of the 30mm, fill the frame, and measure the distance from the front of the lens barrel, that could be combined with themeasurements from my previous post.Plus length adjustments can be made by using the included step-ups and step-downs, plus your own step-ups and step downs (and filters).Somewhere between 57-59mm from the film plane to from of the lens barrel, depending.It's going to be close. I got out a set-square, I reckon, with no extension tubes and just the included step-up ring, it will be 57.5-58mm to the slide. There won't be a need/room for spacers. There may be a smidgen of a crop.With the 60mm I actually put in a filter to give me a tiny crop, that way I didn't keep fussing about lining up the edges perfectly.It did cross my mind as to whether I would do better to force a crop, keep away from the edges of the lens, and combine that with tripod-hires. I also wondered whether other computational modes, or multiple exposure settings, might be worth a try to improve either the focus or colors.

Mchnz- have you been using both the Oly 30 and 60 for the slide and negative digitizations? Did you end up with a preference?Myck

mchnz wrote:tammons wrote:mchnz wrote:Seattle Myck wrote:Thanks Gentzel,I did see that too. But I also noticed a comment somewhere that the thumbscrew adjustment on the tube next to the LED which allows tilt adjustment also allows for some adjustment along the axis of the lens. I guess what I was trying to find out or hoping for is that lateral adjustment is sufficient to fill the frame?MackIf someone would hold a slide in front of the 30mm, fill the frame, and measure the distance from the front of the lens barrel, that could be combined with themeasurements from my previous post.Plus length adjustments can be made by using the included step-ups and step-downs, plus your own step-ups and step downs (and filters).Somewhere between 57-59mm from the film plane to from of the lens barrel, depending.It's going to be close. I got out a set-square, I reckon, with no extension tubes and just the included step-up ring, it will be 57.5-58mm to the slide. There won't be a need/room for spacers. There may be a smidgen of a crop.With the 60mm I actually put in a filter to give me a tiny crop, that way I didn't keep fussing about lining up the edges perfectly.It did cross my mind as to whether I would do better to force a crop, keep away from the edges of the lens, and combine that with tripod-hires. I also wondered whether other computational modes, or multiple exposure settings, might be worth a try to improve either the focus or colors.I back off a small amount, but I am using a macro rail.Also, IBIS will move the frame all over the place so it's best to use a tripod.

Seattle Myck wrote:Mchnz- have you been using both the Oly 30 and 60 for the slide and negative digitizations? Did you end up with a preference?MyckI have used both on a macro rail and saw little difference between the two.

Seattle Myck wrote:Mchnz- have you been using both the Oly 30 and 60 for the slide and negative digitizations? Did you end up with a preference?MyckThe thread is getting a bit long and confusing. I only have the 60mm. It seems no one has the 30 mm and the JJC set with the extension tubes.There is another JJC-set that just includes the light and the slide+negative holders. The light has slide/neg holder rails which are redundant when purchased with the extension-head kit (which has its own rails).  The light has a tripod mounting thread, with which, you could to do some DIY to setup a camera at the right distance.   This is the light with the slide holder inserted:JJC Light with Slide mount inserted.With some DIY, it could be made to work with any lens that can reasonably fill the frame with a focused slide/negative. Some timber and a couple of tripod diameter bolts and a black cardboard cover would be an alternative to buying macro rails. As would a couple of tabletop tripods in a dark room.But people were wondering if the full extension tube set could work with the 30mm. That would mean no DIY rig would be required. The slide would mount on the extension-head unit, and the light is inserted onto the peg-spacers, so the slide is now further away from the relatively hot 40C light. I gave some rough dimensions, based on using a set square, pictured here:Extension-head-uni with no no extension tubes and 46-52 step-up, set at minimum extension.Pictured is just the mounting head and the 42-52 step up ring.Based on the info contributed by tammons:Somewhere between 57-59mm from the film plane to from of the lens barrel, depending.It looks like its a close fit. The minimum distance appears to be around 57.5 to 58mm. A slide might not quite fill the frame edge-to-edge, but it so close to call, someone needs to actually try it. Whether it's important that the slide extends fully edge-to-edge is also a reasonable question.With the 60mm f/2.8, one extension tube is required. It's tight the other way: the head has to be fully extended, there is no room to back away to have some space around the edges, but a filter or more adapter rings can added to achieve that if it proves desirable.

mchnz wrote:It seems no one has the 30 mm and the JJC set with the extension tubes.I'm working on fixing thatI'm just making sure before i buy the kit that i order all the necessary parts (as in, for example, get the current kit with the 46mm step-up ring).I hope to get it reasonably fast and try it out with both lenses; i'll make sure to report back here, but if in the meantime someone does, i'll be happy to read about it too.

Just to say I am very interested in this thread. Please keep posting!

This thread is great, it reminds me of the problems I went through after getting my first DSLR, a Canon 400D and thinking it would be great to digitise all those negatives and slides I had accumulated over 50 years or so.  I'm an avid DIY fan, finding solutions to accomplishing a goal is a great feeling.After many, many attempts, mostly failed because of focusing, crop factors, lighting and other things put in your way of your goal I got myself one of those cheap and nasty (as I was told) all in one solutions to scanning old photos and slides.  It cost me less than £30.00 and when it arrived I just took out a box of old slides, I didn't even bother to clean or do anything with them as I was more interested in how good, or bad, this new toy was.  It took me less than 10 minutes to scan 100 slides, the result was, to me good enough where I would spend more time cleaning and removing dust and other bits that were on my negatives and slides and I spent a whole day scanning over 2000 slides and negatives.  The results were good enough for me and when I had scanned everything I owned, good or bad I sold it on for £30.00.The image above wasn't cleaned in any way, but I was impressed and carried on:A cold cold day in Burlington, CanadaMy wife in younger daysMy son waiting to throw a snowball, Burlington, Canada.My daughter keeping up the fence, Burlington, CanadaMy son showing a wasted snowball, Burlington, CanadaThe photos above were taken between 1970 and 1985 on Kodachrome 25 except for the one of my wife which was taken using Fujifilm 100 Negative. I was actually really impressed by how they all turned out, it was a 5 MP sensor used in the box, an SD card used as storage and powered by a Nokia phone rechargeable battery which filed after not being used for a while, I replaced it for less than £4.00 but the thing would still work if it was plugged into a USB charger, with or without the battery inserted.  The only thing I didn't like was the fact it never remembered the last filename used and always started at "000".There are always other options that can provide a solution to anything you want to achieve which are less frustrating and can cost a lot less if you are willing to compromise.It was something like this and I can't find the original image of the one I used.All in one Slide and Negative scanner.

d_chiesa wrote:mchnz wrote:It seems no one has the 30 mm and the JJC set with the extension tubes.I'm working on fixing thatI'm just making sure before i buy the kit that i order all the necessary parts (as in, for example, get the current kit with the 46mm step-up ring).I hope to get it reasonably fast and try it out with both lenses; i'll make sure to report back here, but if in the meantime someone does, i'll be happy to read about it too.Hey d-chiesa!Any updates on the functionality of both lenses, particularly the 30 mm with the kit and accessories that you bought. Hope to get some info from you and purchase what I need before these forums get shut down on April 10.Thanks,Myck