I am going to be taking A-Level Photography, but I need to create a small portfolio and therefore I am purchasing a camera for this. I have a lot of experience with DSLRs (e.g how to change shots using aperture etc.) from my Uncle being a photographer and also my sister giving me her camera for use regurlarly. I want a camera that can produce outstanding photos, but I'm not sure what to choose. I have around £800 to spend on a camera and a lens. A lot of people say I must focus on buying good lenses, and I thought a 35mm f/1.8G would be a good start. Full frame is obviously out of my budget, so what are your recommendations (whether it's a D3200  all the way to a D7100) and also what would be a good lens to accompany it with?Please help, thanks very much.

I'm sure you understand that outstanding images come from great photographers, not great cameras.Having said that, most entry level cameras would be fine for your needs.Are you going to be borrowing lenses? If so, are all of them AFS (have a focusing motor in the lens)? That could direct you to a different model.What are your photographic interests? Landsapes are typically undemanding camera wise, sports or low light shots can require a better camera body.

For a college course I would want a semi-pro body that gave me full control (actually that's what I'd want regardless). I use a D700 but as that would exceeed your budget I'd suggest a used D300. The 35mm f1.8 is a good choice of lens. I might get the Sigma 30mm f1.4 because it is just a smidge wider and just a smidge faster. You could also consider MF lenses depending on what you think you most need. There are some good choices.

Alternatively, a used D7000 - you lose a few features that you won't need for a course (mainly the dedicated AF-ON button, 10-pin connector, some of the AF points, fps), but gain on forwards compatibility (unless you jump all the way to D800 after it, you'll be using SD cards in your next camera as well, as well as the better EN-EL15 battery), high ISO, and pixels for cropping/printingAs well as video, for which the D7000 comfortably beats the D300s, and the D300 doesn't even have it!It may actually come down to how they feel in your hand, since there's quite a size difference, but both should be around the same price second hand - try and borrow both (or go to a shop and play with either them or equivalent-sized bodies)Both give you full manual control without menu diving, so will be good for a course, as well as full backwards compatibility with older lenses (for this reason I would not recommend anything below these except perhaps the D90)Both should set you back around £500 here in the UK, leaving just enough for a Sigma 30/1.4 and either a used SB-600 flash (which I would recommend getting early on) OR a 50/1.8G OR 85/1.8D.Good luck!

I agree with Andy and David in that a semi-pro or enthusiast model is best suited for learning photography. I don't think it matters much which one, though I'd choose a used D300. I doubt movies would be on the agenda.A good used D90 would also work just fine as would the D7000 if you can find one cheap enough. The 35 f/1.8 would also work perfectly, I'd think. Even a cheap 18-55 would be ok. A used pro-grade camera would be so much cooler than a new plastic entry level in my opinion, if that matters in the least. It wouldn't to me, but maybe to others. I just prefer the controls on the better models.Take Care.

Guidenet wrote:I agree with Andy and David in that a semi-pro or enthusiast model is best suited for learning photography. I don't think it matters much which one, though I'd choose a used D300. I doubt movies would be on the agenda.A good used D90 would also work just fine as would the D7000 if you can find one cheap enough. The 35 f/1.8 would also work perfectly, I'd think. Even a cheap 18-55 would be ok. A used pro-grade camera would be so much cooler than a new plastic entry level in my opinion, if that matters in the least. It wouldn't to me, but maybe to others. I just prefer the controls on the better models.Take Care.Here's another vote for a D7000, used, refurbed or new.  The IQ is basically as good as it gets in DX (the D7100 is marginally better for much more money). The D90 could work too, but I think that you would be giving up some features you might find useful, and IQ is not quite at the same level as the D7000.I also agree that it is a tough call between the 35mm and 18-55 lens.  The 35mm has better IQ (marginally), but gives you low-light shooting capability. The 18-55mm gives you  the flexibility of the zoom, which goes from wide angle to short tele. I'd probably  go with the 35mm prime and try to save up for the Sigma 17-50 f2.8 or just get the Sigma if I could swing it with a used D7000.I'm a big fan of the Sigma.  It has good speed, better build quality and IQ than the 18-55mm.

Get something used.   A lot more bang for the buck.I'd get perhaps a used D90, D200, D300 or D300s.The D90 and D300s have video, if that matters.The D200 and D300 have a lot more controls easily accessible, and would be quicker to deal with in manual mode, instead of diving into menus.    D200 good from ISO 100-400.  D300 good from ISO 200-800, or a bit more.   D90 similar to D300.If controls don't matter (slow-paced photography), then a D3200 would be a good choice.   Problem with D40, D60, D3xxx and D5xxx series is no in-body focus motors, which will limit your lens selection if you want autofocus.   If you are a student on limited budget, you probably don't want to eliminate a bunch of old AF and AF-D lenses, (and some G lenses as well) from consideration, but they won't autofocus with the lower-end Nikon bodies.So - used D90 would be my first camera suggestion.Lenses - some 35mm and some 85mm.   35F1.8dx, or 35f2.   85F1.8 AF.Perhaps an old SB-26 flash (used in manual mode).

DavidPonting wrote:Alternatively, a used D7000 - you lose a few features that you won't need for a course (mainly the dedicated AF-ON button, 10-pin connector, some of the AF points, fps),I use the AF-ON button all the time. For me that's a definate vote in favour of the D300. I also use the 10-pin connector for the remote control unit that I bought way back when I had an F100 and I've used it on every body I owned since then except the D100 when I had to buy an annoying cable release.but gain on forwards compatibility (unless you jump all the way to D800 after it, you'll be using SD cards in your next camera as well, as well as the better EN-EL15 battery), high ISO, and pixels for cropping/printingThe step forward is likely to be FF. Do any FX cameras use SD? Every DSLR I have used has taken CF cards. It's hard to predict what he'd buy next.As well as video, for which the D7000 comfortably beats the D300s, and the D300 doesn't even have it!If you need video this is a valid point. I've never used it. I bought a used D300 in preference to the D300s to save money. Personally I didn't miss anything.It may actually come down to how they feel in your hand, since there's quite a size difference, but both should be around the same price second hand - try and borrow both (or go to a shop and play with either them or equivalent-sized bodies)Both give you full manual control without menu diving, so will be good for a course, as well as full backwards compatibility with older lenses (for this reason I would not recommend anything below these except perhaps the D90)Both should set you back around £500 here in the UK, leaving just enough for a Sigma 30/1.4 and either a used SB-600 flash (which I would recommend getting early on) OR a 50/1.8G OR 85/1.8D.Yep, agree with all that.Good luck!

slimandy wrote:DavidPonting wrote:Alternatively, a used D7000 - you lose a few features that you won't need for a course (mainly the dedicated AF-ON button, 10-pin connector, some of the AF points, fps),I use the AF-ON button all the time. For me that's a definate vote in favour of the D300. I also use the 10-pin connector for the remote control unit that I bought way back when I had an F100 and I've used it on every body I owned since then except the D100 when I had to buy an annoying cable release.But he won't have the 10-pin release already, and could get an MC-DC2... w.r.t. AF-ON, I have my U1 dial setting set for it, so don't miss the absence of a dedicated one (then again, I've never had one, so I don't know whether I'd miss one...)but gain on forwards compatibility (unless you jump all the way to D800 after it, you'll be using SD cards in your next camera as well, as well as the better EN-EL15 battery), high ISO, and pixels for cropping/printingThe step forward is likely to be FF. Do any FX cameras use SD? Every DSLR I have used has taken CF cards. It's hard to predict what he'd buy next.D600? As far as I can see, the current Nikon progression is that SD cards are used in the smaller (D3x00, D5x00, D7x00, D600) bodies, and CF in the larger, more expensive (D300/D700/D800/D3/D4). I'm going on the assumption that a 16/17 year old will have at least one more iteration of equipment before moving up to the expensive large-body cameras, unless he turns out to be good enough to go pro rapidly or lands a high-paying job early on). I'd agree that it's hard to predict, though, and am probably extrapolating from my usage/income patterns.

I am interested to know why not only you, but others suggest a D300. Why would you suggest this over a new D7000? Thanks.

I want an all purpose body, mainly used for landscape, street photography and a bit of portrait and macro shooting.

MrCahooner wrote:I am interested to know why not only you, but others suggest a D300. Why would you suggest this over a new D7000? Thanks.The D300 is the only pro-level body with a DX format left in the Nikon lineup. It's solid magnesium weather sealed frame is the best you can go without going full frame. It's basically a DX D700 / D800 as far as build quality.The controls are all in pretty much the same place as the D700 / D800 and higher models. There are also pretty much the same tactile controls. This means if you learn the D300, you've pretty much learned all the pro-grade Nikons. You'll also have a heavy duty body that can take some serious abuse and keep on working.Since you said you were taking a top level photography course and you sounded like you were considering a career, I felt a semi-pro to pro-grade Nikon would be a great choice. Now, the D7000 has more megapixels and a newer sensor. It's also got video, but if you're thinking about a serious career, those other reasons are more important long term. With a good photographer, the tool doesn't matter. He just wants a rugged body with all the controls available and that's what the D300 provides.On the other hand, the D7000 is more of a good enthusiast camera. It has a couple of magnesium panels but not a full magnesium frame. It also doesn't have as many controls on the outside for tactile control. It's lighter duty and more plastic. It is not pro-level. It's still a great camera and if you said you were not considering a career, I'd have suggested the D7000 over the D300.I am a photographer for a living full time. I own a D700, D3S, a D800 and a D300. I wouldn't own any camera under this level for all the reasons listed. If I were a weekend warrior and just love to snap on holidays, the D7000 would be more than good enough. It would be great. There's a difference.Take care and good luck.

Guidenet wrote:MrCahooner wrote:I am interested to know why not only you, but others suggest a D300. Why would you suggest this over a new D7000? Thanks.The D300 is the only pro-level body with a DX format left in the Nikon lineup. It's solid magnesium weather sealed frame is the best you can go without going full frame. It's basically a DX D700 / D800 as far as build quality.The controls are all in pretty much the same place as the D700 / D800 and higher models. There are also pretty much the same tactile controls. This means if you learn the D300, you've pretty much learned all the pro-grade Nikons. You'll also have a heavy duty body that can take some serious abuse and keep on working.Since you said you were taking a top level photography course and you sounded like you were considering a career, I felt a semi-pro to pro-grade Nikon would be a great choice. Now, the D7000 has more megapixels and a newer sensor. It's also got video, but if you're thinking about a serious career, those other reasons are more important long term. With a good photographer, the tool doesn't matter. He just wants a rugged body with all the controls available and that's what the D300 provides.On the other hand, the D7000 is more of a good enthusiast camera. It has a couple of magnesium panels but not a full magnesium frame. It also doesn't have as many controls on the outside for tactile control. It's lighter duty and more plastic. It is not pro-level. It's still a great camera and if you said you were not considering a career, I'd have suggested the D7000 over the D300.I am a photographer for a living full time. I own a D700, D3S, a D800 and a D300. I wouldn't own any camera under this level for all the reasons listed. If I were a weekend warrior and just love to snap on holidays, the D7000 would be more than good enough. It would be great. There's a difference.Take care and good luck.There absolutely is a difference, and until you are truly a pro, an enthusiast camera is much more likely to provide value.  The built quality, speed, and AF accuracy are benefits of the D300's pro body.   These features are critical for photo-journalists, wedding shooters and some wildlife shooters.  However, you mentioned that you need to create a portfolio.  I suspect that many of your shots will be more deliberate with time to setup your shots and make sure that your subject is in focus. I also suspect that you won't be tossing around your gear and shooting in deluge conditions. In such instances, the advantages of the pro body are marginal and more than eclipsed by the superior dynamic range and low-light ability of the D7000's more modern sensor.I suspect that by the time you do turn pro, there will be a D400 available and you will prefer a backup camera that has reasonably close image producing properties like the D7000. However, if you think that you will be beating up your camera, shooting fast-action shots, then by all means consider the d300.

Hello,I have considered everyone's options but I feel like a new question, considering the comments received from this article is the best way to go about things. Please click on my name and go to my new post titled 'Follow up: Nikon DSLR + Lens Options' to respond and hopefully help me out! Again, thank you so much for your help, I'd love to hear from you again on my new post.Thanks.