Hello all,is there anybody with some experience using this lens with screw on filters?In which cases vignetting can occur?I'm considering to buy this lens to avoid huge filter systems during trips.Any concern, considerations, or suggestions?Comments are welcome!Thank you in advance!

i have it and use it with screw on filters and it works fine, most are "thin" - should be no problem at all

I use Hoya filters. A neutral density filter is around 5mm thick and I do not get any vignetting with it.A CP is around 7mm. I do get vignetting from 16 to 22mm.

Oh, you got me thinking!I've just ordered a Hoya 77mm HD Screw-In CIR-PL ! Am I going to get vignetting in the UWA, 21mm and below, you say?

I'm reading about using bigger filters with a conversion ring.Anybody here has some impressions?Thank you

I would depend on how thick it is. I have the regular (cheap) filter and it is 7 mm thick.Filters 5 mm thick do not produce any vignetting. Also, vignetting is more noticeable at close focus, < 3m. Focusing at infinite is almost gone. I do not think it will be an issue for landscaping.

lukep wrote:i have it and use it with screw on filters and it works fine, most are "thin" - should be no problem at allWould you be so kind to tell me which filters do you have?Can you use them at 16mm full aperture?Thank you

xuser wrote:I would depend on how thick it is. I have the regular (cheap) filter and it is 7 mm thick.Filters 5 mm thick do not produce any vignetting. Also, vignetting is more noticeable at close focus, < 3m. Focusing at infinite is almost gone. I do not think it will be an issue for landscaping.Sorry, Just to avoid misunderstadning...the thin one (5mm) does vignette at close focus? or just the thick one (7mm)?Thank you

Ahduhn wrote:xuser wrote:I would depend on how thick it is. I have the regular (cheap) filter and it is 7 mm thick.Filters 5 mm thick do not produce any vignetting. Also, vignetting is more noticeable at close focus, < 3m. Focusing at infinite is almost gone. I do not think it will be an issue for landscaping.Sorry, Just to avoid misunderstadning...the thin one (5mm) does vignette at close focus? or just the thick one (7mm)?Thank youI'm sure he's talking the thicker one, not the thinner.Personally, I think you're over-concerned. For starters, what filters are you plannig on poking on that lens? You have to be very careful with a polarizer because it's pretty much too wide angle for sky shots. Polarizers only polarize sunlight at 90 degrees and at 16mm, you're taking in so much, you're likely to get very uneven skys. Now reflections of foilage is a different consideration.A single ND filter of the right choice is also not going to cause any problems. Neutral Grads don't do well on circular screw threads anyway, so I get back to what you're going to add.I use only very good thin mount B+W, Heliopan or Rodenstock filters. My wide angle B&W comes nowhere near vignetting on the 16-35 f/4. It does not have external threads for stacking filters fortunately. I also always use a hood. I'm very careful and don't use it that often for the reasons already stated. There are other and better ways of darkening the sky if you need or want that.I also don't believe in step-up or step down rings for polarizing filters. Choosing and using filters should be considered carefully as you're messing around with the optical formula and quality of the lens.

Guidenet wrote:Ahduhn wrote:xuser wrote:I would depend on how thick it is. I have the regular (cheap) filter and it is 7 mm thick.Filters 5 mm thick do not produce any vignetting. Also, vignetting is more noticeable at close focus, < 3m. Focusing at infinite is almost gone. I do not think it will be an issue for landscaping.Sorry, Just to avoid misunderstadning...the thin one (5mm) does vignette at close focus? or just the thick one (7mm)?Thank youI'm sure he's talking the thicker one, not the thinner.Personally, I think you're over-concerned. For starters, what filters are you plannig on poking on that lens? You have to be very careful with a polarizer because it's pretty much too wide angle for sky shots. Polarizers only polarize sunlight at 90 degrees and at 16mm, you're taking in so much, you're likely to get very uneven skys. Now reflections of foilage is a different consideration.A single ND filter of the right choice is also not going to cause any problems. Neutral Grads don't do well on circular screw threads anyway, so I get back to what you're going to add.I use only very good thin mount B+W, Heliopan or Rodenstock filters. My wide angle B&W comes nowhere near vignetting on the 16-35 f/4. It does not have external threads for stacking filters fortunately. I also always use a hood. I'm very careful and don't use it that often for the reasons already stated. There are other and better ways of darkening the sky if you need or want that.I also don't believe in step-up or step down rings for polarizing filters. Choosing and using filters should be considered carefully as you're messing around with the optical formula and quality of the lens.Very good suggestions.I'm not new to wide angles, but I recently moved from DX to FX, so I've sold my old 11-16 and I'm evaluating this 16-35. I would like to go for the 14-24 but I'm not sure if I'll be able to have one before I leave this June (very low availability here).In many cases I'll do some bracketing for some landscapes. But in some cases I'm not sure the conditions will permit to underexpose enough.For example, let's consider a typical 15EV condition of a sunny day. I'll try to get the golden hours but I don't know what situation I'll find there. So, let's consider a case where 15 EV is the correct situation. At f11 bracketing +4/-4 Stops would push me to 1/4000 or worse 1/8000.I'd use the ND filter to push some stops away from those fast limits. I'd prefer staying in the best fstop zone to avoid diffraction.I won't use polarizers, except for ground and foliage (potentially any picture that doesn't include wide areas of sky). I was looking for some Hoya Pro1D filters.What do you think?Thanks

Ahduhn wrote:Guidenet wrote:Ahduhn wrote:xuser wrote:I would depend on how thick it is. I have the regular (cheap) filter and it is 7 mm thick.Filters 5 mm thick do not produce any vignetting. Also, vignetting is more noticeable at close focus, < 3m. Focusing at infinite is almost gone. I do not think it will be an issue for landscaping.Sorry, Just to avoid misunderstadning...the thin one (5mm) does vignette at close focus? or just the thick one (7mm)?Thank youI'm sure he's talking the thicker one, not the thinner.Personally, I think you're over-concerned. For starters, what filters are you plannig on poking on that lens? You have to be very careful with a polarizer because it's pretty much too wide angle for sky shots. Polarizers only polarize sunlight at 90 degrees and at 16mm, you're taking in so much, you're likely to get very uneven skys. Now reflections of foilage is a different consideration.A single ND filter of the right choice is also not going to cause any problems. Neutral Grads don't do well on circular screw threads anyway, so I get back to what you're going to add.I use only very good thin mount B+W, Heliopan or Rodenstock filters. My wide angle B&W comes nowhere near vignetting on the 16-35 f/4. It does not have external threads for stacking filters fortunately. I also always use a hood. I'm very careful and don't use it that often for the reasons already stated. There are other and better ways of darkening the sky if you need or want that.I also don't believe in step-up or step down rings for polarizing filters. Choosing and using filters should be considered carefully as you're messing around with the optical formula and quality of the lens.Very good suggestions.I'm not new to wide angles, but I recently moved from DX to FX, so I've sold my old 11-16 and I'm evaluating this 16-35. I would like to go for the 14-24 but I'm not sure if I'll be able to have one before I leave this June (very low availability here).In many cases I'll do some bracketing for some landscapes. But in some cases I'm not sure the conditions will permit to underexpose enough.For example, let's consider a typical 15EV condition of a sunny day. I'll try to get the golden hours but I don't know what situation I'll find there. So, let's consider a case where 15 EV is the correct situation. At f11 bracketing +4/-4 Stops would push me to 1/4000 or worse 1/8000.I'd use the ND filter to push some stops away from those fast limits. I'd prefer staying in the best fstop zone to avoid diffraction.I won't use polarizers, except for ground and foliage (potentially any picture that doesn't include wide areas of sky). I was looking for some Hoya Pro1D filters.What do you think?I think you're very smart. Many novice photographers start putting all kinds of filters on the nose with no reason to do so. You're obviously a seasoned photographer who seems to know what he's doing.I still think you're over concerned a bit. 4 stops of bracketing at f/11 is quite a bit, wouldn't you agree.You're right though. I'd rather be at f/8 anyway. Three stops is still quite a bit, but if you're tone mapping, I can see your point.I'm sure Hoya Pro1D are good enough. I still prefer B+W, Heliopan and Rodenstock over any Japanese filter made with an aluminum ring. B+W multicoated thin wides are my favorite. They just can't get stuck with that machined knurled brass ring. I've had good filters for many years without failure and I buy only the very best.That said, my next purchase is going to be a variable ND filter from Singh-Ray. I like that one filter will allow me many exposure possibilities. I'll probably add a five stop More-Slo to it. I'm hoping the quality will be up there with what I'm used to. I have several rectangular ND grads from Singh-Ray which are superb. I wouldn't use any other anymore.  You might give them a look.http://www.singh-ray.com/

Guidenet wrote:Ahduhn wrote:Guidenet wrote:Ahduhn wrote:xuser wrote:I would depend on how thick it is. I have the regular (cheap) filter and it is 7 mm thick.Filters 5 mm thick do not produce any vignetting. Also, vignetting is more noticeable at close focus, < 3m. Focusing at infinite is almost gone. I do not think it will be an issue for landscaping.Sorry, Just to avoid misunderstadning...the thin one (5mm) does vignette at close focus? or just the thick one (7mm)?Thank youI'm sure he's talking the thicker one, not the thinner.Personally, I think you're over-concerned. For starters, what filters are you plannig on poking on that lens? You have to be very careful with a polarizer because it's pretty much too wide angle for sky shots. Polarizers only polarize sunlight at 90 degrees and at 16mm, you're taking in so much, you're likely to get very uneven skys. Now reflections of foilage is a different consideration.A single ND filter of the right choice is also not going to cause any problems. Neutral Grads don't do well on circular screw threads anyway, so I get back to what you're going to add.I use only very good thin mount B+W, Heliopan or Rodenstock filters. My wide angle B&W comes nowhere near vignetting on the 16-35 f/4. It does not have external threads for stacking filters fortunately. I also always use a hood. I'm very careful and don't use it that often for the reasons already stated. There are other and better ways of darkening the sky if you need or want that.I also don't believe in step-up or step down rings for polarizing filters. Choosing and using filters should be considered carefully as you're messing around with the optical formula and quality of the lens.Very good suggestions.I'm not new to wide angles, but I recently moved from DX to FX, so I've sold my old 11-16 and I'm evaluating this 16-35. I would like to go for the 14-24 but I'm not sure if I'll be able to have one before I leave this June (very low availability here).In many cases I'll do some bracketing for some landscapes. But in some cases I'm not sure the conditions will permit to underexpose enough.For example, let's consider a typical 15EV condition of a sunny day. I'll try to get the golden hours but I don't know what situation I'll find there. So, let's consider a case where 15 EV is the correct situation. At f11 bracketing +4/-4 Stops would push me to 1/4000 or worse 1/8000.I'd use the ND filter to push some stops away from those fast limits. I'd prefer staying in the best fstop zone to avoid diffraction.I won't use polarizers, except for ground and foliage (potentially any picture that doesn't include wide areas of sky). I was looking for some Hoya Pro1D filters.What do you think?I think you're very smart. Many novice photographers start putting all kinds of filters on the nose with no reason to do so. You're obviously a seasoned photographer who seems to know what he's doing.I still think you're over concerned a bit. 4 stops of bracketing at f/11 is quite a bit, wouldn't you agree.You're right though. I'd rather be at f/8 anyway. Three stops is still quite a bit, but if you're tone mapping, I can see your point.I'm sure Hoya Pro1D are good enough. I still prefer B+W, Heliopan and Rodenstock over any Japanese filter made with an aluminum ring. B+W multicoated thin wides are my favorite. They just can't get stuck with that machined knurled brass ring. I've had good filters for many years without failure and I buy only the very best.That said, my next purchase is going to be a variable ND filter from Singh-Ray. I like that one filter will allow me many exposure possibilities. I'll probably add a five stop More-Slo to it. I'm hoping the quality will be up there with what I'm used to. I have several rectangular ND grads from Singh-Ray which are superb. I wouldn't use any other anymore.  You might give them a look.http://www.singh-ray.com/I've found some very interesting rodenstock filters.I'm pretty worried about vignetting. These seems to be VERY slim (about 4mm).I'll check the singh ray tooThank you very much.

I checked the Singh Ray filters, I didn't remember about them.Very good filters. But the most interesting are squared filters with holder.The Vari filters are too thick. Maybe you'd check the rodenstock vario ND filters.They're very interesting, and available in the thin mount.Cheers

Just to confirm, with a filter 4 mm thick you should not get any vignetting at 16 mm regardless of the focus distance. The 5 mm I have does not produce any.

Ahduhn wrote:lukep wrote:i have it and use it with screw on filters and it works fine, most are "thin" - should be no problem at allWould you be so kind to tell me which filters do you have?Can you use them at 16mm full aperture?Thank yousure thing,with this lens i use the hoya ND400 for long exposure, no problem at 16mmB&W CP which is sort of thick  - but i dont use it at 16mm -- just get uneven sky's that wide - but yes that will be a slight problem from 16-18mm.  But just get a thin CP if neededTiffen 2 stop nd filter - .6mm thick - maybe a very slight problem at 16mm - if at all -  but nothing that bothers meits a great great lens - i really love it.  I just got back from joshua tree and when rock climbing with the kids took my 24-85, but found I was shooting mostly at 24mm.  So the next time out I took this lens, 16mm is so much wider.  For landscapes later in the evening it was a no brainer to use this lens.  Get something like the nd400 if you dont have a long exposure filter - its a lot of fun at 16mm letting it run for 30 seconds

are you talking about 77mm thread for the nd400, causing no vignetting?

The lens instructions say Nikon screw in filters are compatible. That means Nikon are satisfied their 2 filters the NC and the Series II pol do not hard vignette (black corners) on FX.I have not had any vignetting issues as a lens owner, though in fairness I am not likely to use the POL at 16mm on FX because of the 99% difficulty factor achieving an even pol effect with such a wide angle on FX.