Leonard Shepherd wrote:Richard Katris wrote:An old Ai lens for instance?Using an old Ai lens is no different to setting manual exposure and manual focus on a Z lens.Ai lenses have mechanical aperture rings... so there is a difference.

don't have a Z camera.....so thought the issue was aperture flutter even during manually set apertures on the Z lenses as a result of electrical actuation of the aperture for each shot, and a flutter from different apertures during those exposures resulting in possible variations of exposure from shot to shot that might not be uniform.  Manual/preset aperture from a manual lens w/no electrical or mechanical connection to the camera would mean that aperture would not ever move without moving the aperture ring on the lens...and thus resulting in no variance of apertures between shots.

Richard Katris wrote:don't have a Z camera.....so thought the issue was aperture flutter even during manually set apertures on the Z lenses as a result of electrical actuation of the aperture for each shot, and a flutter from different apertures during those exposures resulting in possible variations of exposure from shot to shot that might not be uniform. Manual/preset aperture from a manual lens w/no electrical or mechanical connection to the camera would mean that aperture would not ever move without moving the aperture ring on the lens...and thus resulting in no variance of apertures between shots.That's in theory but modern Nikon AI AIS lenses work at wide open for metering and framing, only close down aperture when shutter button clicked. At least on D7x0 D8x0 DSLRs they work like that. Otherwise why would all SLRs have a button called depth of field preview.

DSLRs had an actuating lever built in, I am not sure but I do not think Z bodies with the adapter have any manual aperture lever on them, so likely have to be used in stopdown mode, so with manual aperture ring are likely to not change at all during exposures.

Richard Katris wrote:DSLRs had an actuating lever built in, I am not sure butI do not think Z bodies with the adapter have any manual aperture lever on them, so likely have to be used in stopdown mode, so with manual aperture ring are likely to not change at all during exposures.https://www.photo.net/discuss/threads/the-ftz-adapter.5512217/

Photofrankenstein wrote:That's in theory but modern Nikon AI AIS lenses work at wide open for metering and framing,By "modern" - I do not include 50 year old technology

did not know....don't have a Z body yet, assumed they left out mechanical control lever.  My mistake.  So, does the flutter exist w/lenses w/ mechanical aperture rings and older lenses that use that lever?

Richard Katris wrote:did not know....don't have a Z body yet, assumed they left out mechanical control lever. My mistake. So, does the flutter exist w/lenses w/ mechanical aperture rings and older lenses that use that lever?Only the newest E series F mount lenses use electronic controlled aperture diaphragm all others require an external motor to drive the lever hence why FTZ is so bulky. From OP description, only some Z lenses are having this issue.

Update. I bought a second 24 - 200.it seems that my first lens was not working properly. Here is a quick test from today. This was shot at F 10 at 24 mm. If I look real hard I can maybe see a slight flicker in the corner of the blue sky. But nothing at all like I was experiencing with the other lenshttps://vimeo.com/courtleve/review/548225894/ec36154667

Update. I bought a second 24 - 200.it seems that my first lens was not working properly. Here is a quick test from today. This was shot at F 10 at 24 mm. If I look real hard I can maybe see a slight flicker in the corner of the blue sky. But nothing at all like I was experiencing with the other lenshttps://vimeo.com/courtleve/review/548225894/ec36154667So what you are saying is, thst every time we buy a new Z lens, we should do a timelapse (over how long?) to see if we got a good or bad example.

Apparently. I spent HOURS trying to figure out what was going on. Luckily I ran into a buddy that has the 24-70 to confirm it wasn’t the camera. Only after a number of other tests and even slightly up mounting the lens and then ordering and receiving a second copy did I realize its the lens. I even reached out to Nikon for support but never received any response-typical of Nikon. I’ve been an NPS member for nearly 20 years. Pretty poor service in general so no surprise about a non-response.Luckily, I purchased via Prime/Amazon and I’m within the 30 day return period so back it goes.In short, not sure what to make of it but yeah, I’d 100% test new lenses in every way you can immediately after purchase.

Leonard Shepherd wrote:Photofrankenstein wrote:That's in theory but modern Nikon AI AIS lenses work at wide open for metering and framing,By "modern" - I do not include 50 year old technologyThat would be well pre-AI, never mind AIS !

I’ve been having this same issue with this same lenses 24-200 on my z7. I have confirmed it is a lens/aperture issue definitely. Simple fix, once your aperture and focus is set, unseat the lens and turn it a few mm until the aperture reads “- -“ on the display. Problem solved. I tried this with several TLs this morning and no flicker on any.Be careful not to accidentally adjust focus while unseating the lens, as the focus ring is very close to the body.I’m very relieved to have found a fix for this. I absolutely love this lens for its range and stunning image quality. I can’t believe modern mirrorless tech has come so far as to make a super zoom like this possible. And it’s AWESOME for Timelapse photography.

pugnacious33 wrote:I’ve been having this same issue with this same lenses 24-200 on my z7. I have confirmed it is a lens/aperture issue definitely. Simple fix, once your aperture and focus is set, unseat the lens and turn it a few mm until the aperture reads “- -“ on the display. Problem solved. I tried this with several TLs this morning and no flicker on any.Be careful not to accidentally adjust focus while unseating the lens, as the focus ring is very close to the body.I’m very relieved to have found a fix for this. I absolutely love this lens for its range and stunning image quality. I can’t believe modern mirrorless tech has come so far as to make a super zoom like this possible. And it’s AWESOME for Timelapse photography.Isn't this a bit unsafe...risk of lens coming off the body by any chance?

No you only have to turn it a few mm to lose electronic connection. Still very solid.

I see...cool. Let me see if I run into issues with flickering in time lapses, might try this trick.

Had a chance to go a TL test with a manual focus Laowa 15mm and no flicker. Def a lens thing.