Nobody claims the 50D is bad. Only that it failed to meet Canon's (and in particular, Chuck Westfall's ) hype about improved noise and resolution.People wanted (and expected) much more "out of the box" than was delivered. They were disappointed to learn that the camera did not deliver expected results or that they had to work had to get the improved results.I still shoot Canon 10D and 20D, and will not upgrade until one of my cameras has a catastrophic failure. I'm as happy with image quality today as when the cameras were new (other than occasional dust spots).If one can't make satisfying images with one's existing gear, then better S/N and resolution is not likely to help.

Hi David,I was quite happy to hear the fact that you still use a 10D because I'm in the same boat and have been very happy. Most people tend to be on the latest model and sensor resolution chase to satisfy their psychological beliefs and to impress ad agencies. Ad agencies tend to follow allot of hype and set prerequisites that they themselves don't understand.Do you use the 10D for professional work ?Sam

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1019&thread=30524219 -- Bob'I can look at a fine art photograph and sometimes I can hear music.' - Ansel AdamsCanon 40D, 70-200mm f4L IS, 28-135mm IS, Sigma 17-70mm f2.8 Macro, 100-400 mm f4.5L IS Sony R1, Canon Pro1

Menges88wrote:aVolanchewrote:Funny how, in the days of film, no one ever suggested that finer grain would result in more (or more apparent) camera shake.So 'splain to me how higher resolution increases camera shake..?Or even apparent camera shake..?Camera shake blurs images at any resolution.Would someone please answer this question?True, camera shake does blur images at any resolution, but the more you "blow it up" (i.e. the more resolution) the more apparent this is. Its like when something is slightly off focus and you decrease the size of the picture, it becomes less noticeable. Yes, the blur is always there and hasnt gone away, it's just not as noticeable at smaller sizes. Same goes with noise, the smaller the size of the picture the less you notice it. Its not until you view the picture at a larger size that you realise the amount of noise or blur.I will show an example. The blur is caused by subject movement, but same theory can apply for camera shake. The first image is downsized and whilst one can notice some blur, it does not appear to be TOO excessive (look at the body of the bird).Hope this makes sense.No,it doesn't make sense if we are comparing 2 images,one shot with the 40D and one with a 50D,that are framed identically(i.e.the same subject at the same focal length,distance from camera,lens).So at "image level" (and that is what matters,not a 100% crop) is there a difference?You said:"the more you blow it up(i.e.the more resolution)".........are those not 2 totally different situations?If you blow it up,you change the size of the image(from say 4x6 to 6x9 or whatever you choose).Whereas,resolution is a completely different matter.Should we not be keeping the 2 images at the same size?

I have read other posts that recommend these techniques, and I try to apply them. I find it difficult, however, to be so deliberate when shooting action (sports, birds in flight). With sports I frequently use a monopod, which I find helps me immensely to keep the camera steady. For BIF I struggle, and compensate with volume shooting in hopes that some of the shots will be sharp.Are other folks able to use these holding/shooting techniques in "action' situations? If so, can you give some advise on how to accomplish it?Thanks ...

Alessandro Di Sciasciowrote:I love having the control I have with my 40D but I AM indeed very disappointed by the fact that it can't match the results a $350 camera puts out when I hand it over to a stranger.Where I live there is a separate drivers license for stick shift and cars with automatic gear. Apart from the fact that it would not be legal, I would hesitate to lend my car to anybody who don't have a stick shift license.Much the same with cameras.BTW The 50D live view comes with a face recognition mode if you enable it.greetings,

Where I got my hand holding tips fromhttp://lightingmods.blogspot.com/2008/10/tip-camera-holding-technique.htmlgreetings,

I was one of the first to complain as I knew nothing about DSLRS as I was a G9 owner.I now love this camera, here is just 1 of my 50D picturesthanks Louis -- http://www.louis-amore.smugmug.com

Nice shot!

Wayndomwrote:So 'splain to me how higher resolution increases camera shake..?BTW This is simplified.A) What a single pixel displays depends on the light hitting it.B) If the space of the above pixel is taken by two pixels. Then there are one separate voting for each pixel.This means that a movement that would not change the pixel in A could change one of the pixels in B.The more times you repeat this the less movement is needed for an unwanted pixel change to occur.This is why apparent sharpness increases when you reduce an image in size.This is not exactlly rocket science.greetings,

Sam Ashwrote:Hi David,Do you use the 10D for professional work ?Sam, nice to hear there others who find happiness and contentment without having the latest and greatest of everything.I do use my 10D for professional work, but I'm not a full-time pro. Most of my (occasional) pro work is event work for businesses and non-profits. The vast bulk of my shooting is for my own enjoyment.When people look at my photos and compliment me on them, they seem to want to know what brand of camera I use, not which model, as if the brand makes a difference in skill of the photographer.If I was a full-time pro or more avid part-time pro, I would upgrade to 1D-series bodies for ruggedness, MTBF, weather sealing, and maybe full frame to use my wides to max advantage.

I find this article quite interesting although it is lacking a clear conclusion (not its intend, I guess)http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/cameras/50d.shtml

O.K. I am about to send my 50D back due to the focus issue I thought it had, now I am really confused. I took my 40D hooked it to my 300 f4 and shot some great shots, my 50 d when pushed on screen to a 100 percent does look softer? B&H has agree to send me a New one if I return this one,am i wasting my time? will the next one be the same? Photographer error is the problem? Micro adjustment? 40D-50D same 300 f4 lens the 40D photo was picked to be sharper than the 50D at 5x7, help!

Nice portrait Louis, you must be very pleased with that!I enjoy learning new cameras. If my shot didnt come out the way I planned, I sit down, look at it on the monitor and think about what I could change next time to make the shot better. It's all a learning process and if you stick at it, you will produce nice results. You have shown this in that lovely portrait!

My apologies, using the term "blowing up" was not the correct phrase to use. Rather, I should have said, increasing the image to its original size.On a different note, comparing my friends 40D and 50D (only briefly), if the 50D image is resized to the size of the 40D, there is little difference between the two on first glance. However, crop the images and I can see more detail on the 50D than on the 40D; IMHO of course.I understand this does not answer your question. I will leave that up to someone more knowledgeable than myself.

The 50D image when printed at the same size as a 40D image (provided we are talking about a reasonable size, say A4 and above) will show an increase in detail or resolution.This is inevitable (provided the manufacturer hasn't completely botched the sensor and using the same lens and settings) just as it is inevitable that the 100% crop will show less detail and resolution, i.e. per pixel sharpness.The other advantages to using high resolution sensors is that when sharpening is applied you can apply just a little more before it becomes obtrusive, noise reduction can be increased a little more before loss of detail becomes noticeable, debayering "false" colours are less noticeable and other digital artefacts such as jaggies and haloes are also smaller and less noticeable. As well, when we are talking about VERY large size prints, the size which can be printed before pixellation becomes a problem is also greater.

2) Canon 40D owners who don't want the 40D to suddenly be 2nd place in the Canon DX universe.We 40d users wanted canon to significantly improve our favorite model instead of craming consumer mpxls into the newer version that makes our lenses bleed -- MAC

People who are execting each model to come out with significant major improvements are not living in reality. The image quality of all the cameras has been increasing incrementally but relative to the technical improvements that can be implemented. The pictures from the 300D to the 50D have all been excellent. The operational functions have gone up in leaps and bounds. Lets leave the research to the experts. If you don't like certain models, just wait until you see one you like. I agree with the first post, the 50D is an excellent camera, one of the best out there, now priced lower than my previous G3.

MACwrote:2) Canon 40D owners who don't want the 40D to suddenly be 2nd place in the Canon DX universe.We 40d users wanted canon to significantly improve our favorite model instead of craming consumer mpxls into the newer version that makes our lenses bleedWith good glass the new 50D has clearly more resolution than the 40D and my D300. I've seen the results. On top of that the 50D has the ability to correct back/front focus issues on lenses. That second feature is why I chose a D300 over the 40D as a 2nd body last year (and then added a D700).The 50D is a sweet upgrade from the 40D and it's priced great to boot. The 50D is what the 40D should have been from the start.

The 50D is a sweet upgrade from the 40D and it's priced great to boot. The 50D is what the 40D should have been from the start.It doesn't end, and this is exactly what Canon wants you to believe so they can spoon feed you minor upgrades a little at a time. And guess what, the 60D will be exactly what the 50D should have been from the start in about 12-18 months.