jjz2 wrote:I'm not a Sony fan but you could definitely put together a small A7C kit out of these.A7CTamron 20mm 2.8Sony 24mm 2.5Sony Zeiss 35mm 2.8Sony 40mm 2.5Tamron 45mm 1.8Sony 50mm 1.8Sony 50mm 2.5Samyang 75mm 1.8I thought about it, but decided it wasn't worth it.I am still tempted by this, I've been looking through the A7C sample galleries and not all JPG:s are that bad. Especially the once in bright sunlight. Some are admittedly a bit cold and too contrasty, but would be strange if you couldn't make some tweaks in the default processing?I played around on the camera size comparison website and with any kind of zoom I break the 1kg barrier for the kit, even if the normal zoom range and primes could be covered with 600-700g combinations:https://camerasize.com/compact/#371.573,858.859,858.929,858.855,858.580,ha,tBut as everyone has said, APSC is the right choice when weight is the primary factor. And Fuji has the best glass of any APSC system, so...

Joel_O wrote:Henry Richardson wrote:One more thing you might want to consider for making very large prints is to use Gigapixel AI or the new Adobe Super Resolution. Here is an excellent video comparing them:https://youtu.be/9k8cF6yXJGEHuh, quite amazing. Had no idea this software existed before a_c_skinner mentioned it earlier in the thread. Have you used it yourself before printing?The extra resolution comes for free with a newer camera that has faster AF. The AF is probably the primary reason to update the camera.I have not used gigapixel, but i have used Topaz's other tools: Denoise AI and Sharpen AI. They are ok but can often cause artifacts. IMHO Native resolution is always going to be much better.

DarnGoodPhotos wrote:One feature the newest Fujis have is in-camera HDR which also saves a Raw. Check to see if the competing cameras also offer that.This is a multi-exposure mode in addition to the DR compensation? I've been very happy with the DR modes in the X-E1 one. Effective at preventing blown-out skies with quick shots.

Joel_O wrote:jjz2 wrote:I'm not a Sony fan but you could definitely put together a small A7C kit out of these.A7CTamron 20mm 2.8Sony 24mm 2.5Sony Zeiss 35mm 2.8Sony 40mm 2.5Tamron 45mm 1.8Sony 50mm 1.8Sony 50mm 2.5Samyang 75mm 1.8I thought about it, but decided it wasn't worth it.I am still tempted by this, I've been looking through the A7C sample galleries and not all JPG:s are that bad. Especially the once in bright sunlight. Some are admittedly a bit cold and too contrasty, but would be strange if you couldn't make some tweaks in the default processing?I played around on the camera size comparison website and with any kind of zoom I break the 1kg barrier for the kit, even if the normal zoom range and primes could be covered with 600-700g combinations:https://camerasize.com/compact/#371.573,858.859,858.929,858.855,858.580,ha,tBut as everyone has said, APSC is the right choice when weight is the primary factor. And Fuji has the best glass of any APSC system, so...The Sony files will be more malleable if you are the type to do a lot of post processing.Size wise the Sony will be in range, but it's heavier than something like XE3/4.A7C with the 35mm 2.8 sony zeiss would be a kickin combo though.

Clive99 wrote:Joel_O wrote:Clive99 wrote:I do the same types of photography. I can only tell you what I do, not suggesting it's best, but it works for me. I use 3 setups:1) Smallest: XF10 for technical rock climbing. Absolute smallest size. In small lowepro Dashpoint 20pouch.2) Small: XE3 + XC15-45 for mountaineering. This combo is excellent despite XC's handling shortfalls. I long for an XF15-35. Sometimes substitute a small prime (XF27/XF35 etc). In Dashpoint 30 pouch.3) Medium size: XT3 + XF16-80 or sometimes XF90 for BC skiing. I have a mindshift rotation pack that allows me to take the bigger camera. Sometimes use mindshift multi-mount 10 with chest strap. Bigger camera is better for gloves..though I usually take gloves off anyway.I would offer a 3rd suggestion - the XE3. Smallest size, AF is certainly good enough for general use. It should be good enough for skiing with a newer fast AF lens. I use the XE3 + 16F2.8/23F3 for mountain biking action photography and it works ok.XT30 is a good option, but i prefer reduced snag points + smaller pouch with XE3. IMHO fuji made a mistake with XE4. It really is not smaller than XE3. Shame.BTW I don't use a waterproof bag for the camera. I use the smallest lightly padded fast-access pouch I can find. Speed of access is key to me to get the moment. Small pouch can fit under Goretex jacket.Thanks, man! This is super helpful. "Speed of access is key", couldn't agree with you more. It's not just the camera, but the ease and speed of the process from realizing you want to take a picture to a correctly focused and exposed shot stored on your memory card.As you've probably gathered, the main reason for me to consider other brands is the AF, so it's very good to hear you manage those MB shots with the XE3. You're happy with the XT3 for BC skiing as well then, I assume?I also have "three" setups, except I've done it with one camera so far.1) Technical climbs: XE1 and the XF27 pancake. Goes into an Osrpay ultralight S camera bag and stays out of the way until I need it.2) General mountaineering: XE1 and the 18-55 kit lens in the Ortlieber bag. I like having it separate and under my backpack, with a waist strap in addition to the shoulder strap. But I would like a wider angle, so have been considering the 14/2.8 prime.I occasionally substituted in the 14/2.8 before I got my 15-45. The semi-extreme wide angle makes for some really unique shots in the mountains. I would strongly suggest the XC15-45. It's super sharp at 15 and much smaller than 18-55. I got mine used really cheap (i think about $200CAD. XF14 is pricy).Very good to know. Thanks! I'll start looking for that lens right now. Got to come up sooner rather than later. It's sold as the kit lens in some setups I believe.3) BC skiing: XE1 and the 50-230 in the Ortlieber bag.From what i've heard, the XE1 is slow to focus. You would find the XE3 a big step up in AF speed. I like the rangefinder style for this application because it fits in the smallest pouch. You need to size pouch for viewfinder hump with the SLR style bodies.Yeah, that was the original reason for the E1 and not anything SLR style. I don't get that many technical climbing days anymore, so I don't think I have the get absolutely smallest thing I can find. I see that I can get some used XE3 for quite cheap. I'll keep this in mind, if non the of the newer bodies works out.I'm not particularly worried about my gear (they are meant to be abused), but the Ortlieb bag is a real peach (that happens to be waterproof as well. It's just the waterproof fabric, some padding, no unnecessary compartments, and a sliding lock that opens much quicker than a zipper (and doesn't freeze). It's discontinued thou, so I want to part from it much less than my camera.Hmm curious about that. As much as I like zippers for protection, they can be slow.It's the best camera gear I've purchased. Someone else was asking about it too and found it used. The sliding lock is super quick and secure when you need it.I think I just need to go and handle these newer Fuji bodies to figure out those compromises between size, sag points, grip (or lack therof) etc.Yes. I may take a look at the XE4, but even if can get around the lack of a grip, losing the AF selector lever is a deal killer. I use that a lot in the mountains - switching between action and landscape.Someone mentioned that the autofocus switch can be programmed into one of the customizable buttons. Maybe that would work. With enough duct tape (or Ebay) a grip can probably be added too.

a_c_skinner wrote:Just to chip in I had my X-E3 and 23/2 out hanging round my neck for a couple of hours at -30C and on another day for four hours at -20C and it performed well throughout. XC skiing Arctic Finland Feb 2020.Ahh! I'm from Finland actually. Living in Norway now. Lapland is definitively a good proving ground for cameras. The best part of so cold temperatures is that it is certifiably dry. I'm amazed the batteries didn't die during that four-hour ski thou!

Somnambulist Squirrel wrote:I traded my Sony A7Rii in to switch to Fuji, mostly because:1). I was ALWAYS spending time editing that I didn't want to spend to get the colors I wanted2). Ergonomics - it was fiddly and not intuitive. I'm not convinced I've found Fuji to be radically better, here, but I'm new enough to it that I am withholding judgment. Some things are easier, if maybe not faster. Access to the shutter dial, aperture rings on the lens and ISO dial when using a tripod, in the cold, though, are awesome. A clear win for me.3). Many good lenses for Sony FF are HUGE. No fun to haul around in the mountains.I regularly use, and like, a Sony a6300 and had an a6000. I didn't stay with those mostly because of reasons 1 and 2 above (2 for a different reason - see below). But the size and AF on the Sony APS-C cameras are outstanding for outdoor sports. The tracking is completely reliable. Completely. Lock on target, fire away and the VAST majority of your shots will be spot on at 11fps. It's REALLY impressive. If I was only, or even mostly shooting outdoor sports, I would have gone that way. An A6400 with the new Tamron 17-70 f2.8 gives you an excellent zoom range, great optics that are stabilized, light weight and weather sealing. The colors on the newer gen Sonys are better than they were. They still are not Fuji. I would take a hard look at that option, though. There are some great tiny primes for that series - the Sigma 16mm f1.4 is fantastic (not tiny), the Samyang primes are small and quite good.Easy to use with gloves? Not if you have to change literally ANYTHING other than what's programmed to the wheel. If you shoot in aperture or shutter priority mostly and stick with lock-on continuous AF, then you don't really have to change much. If you shoot manual everything and like to vary up modes - nope. Not with gloves on. Everything on those bodies is tiny. But when I shoot skiers with them, it's easy. Shutter or aperture priority puts the big wheel in charge, AF target box in the center so I just point it at my skier, lock it on and fire away.Just be ready to edit more.The X-E4 would be tempting, but the lack of weather sealing worries me (but maybe I'm overblowing that issue?). If you have done fine with your X-E1 though, with both weather and use in the field, it seems like the X-E4 would give you a lot of more than you have now, with no new downsides. And you already have the glass.......Thank you! Very good to hear from someone who has used both Sony and Fuji.I actually like editing. It's part of the process as they say. Often it's just minor tweaks thou and with Fuji I can do them straight to the JPG:s. I'm happy to edit RAW files as well, but it takes a bit more time when starting from scratch. I have a couple of presets that speed up the process a lot thou. I'm sure I could come up with such presents for Sony as well. Of course, it might not be that fun when it becomes a necessity, as you say.As for weather sealing... I'm no expert, but my XE1 is still working after 10 years of proper abuse. I've just kept it dry when not shooting. Then the worst of rain / hail / snow hasn't bothered it the short time when I'm actually taking the shot. But then again I don't stand around with my camera in P*ing rain. So, I'm not too worried about the XE4 lack of weather sealing.The AF of the Sony's is obviously their biggest draw, but I think I have to give the new Fuji bodies a chance first. If it's good enough, I don't need the best and I can keep using / expanding my current glass collection.

There is a fully functional 30 day trial if you want to find a few to try it on and make sure your hardware is up to it.  My machines are pretty marginal so I need to go for coffee while they process but I print so few it doesn't matter.

The Davinator wrote:By this, I mean on a regular basis. For landscapes, I’ve had no issue with even my old X-Pro1...which has the same sensor as your XE1...when printing a 16x24 print. With the new AI super rez in Photoshop, it appears that can now be 20x30 with little issue...maybe even 24x36.Thanks for the tip on the super rez in Photoshop. I use RawTherapee and Darkroom, so haven't stumbled upon it.I regularly print A4 (that's 16x24 inches, I guess?) and A3 sizes. Perfectly happy with the 16 Mpix for that. It's the big prints for my walls that I haven't been a 100% happy with. They are 60x100cm (close to 24x36). But I haven't used the AI upsampling tools that others have also mentioned. Definitively worth a try for my existing files. With any of the new camera options, I think the 24-26 Mpix will be plenty to both crop a bit and print over 1 square meter wall decoration.

Joel_O wrote:a_c_skinner wrote:From those images I can't see any reason to buy a new camera. (I don't take such advice myself of course.)Operating with gloves has long been a Fuji weakness, there is an add on grip though. I'd not buy Sony or Canon APS-C. Sony I think has weaker lenses and Canon seems like a plain dead end after the R mount's arrival.At present you'd go from 16 to 26 Mpix, which gives you about a 40% bigger print size. Do you want that? Your first image comes up well to that size with Gigapixel. The X-E4 will have better AF than your current camera, is what you are used to and uses the same lenses. Your X-E1 is pretty much valueless so staying with Fuji means a free backup camera, same battery as well.I've been very happy with my X-E2 then X-E3 (a pointless upgrade BTW). If the X-T30 is small enough then it is an excellent camera.The one thing you will gain is the fully auto switch, which will produce pretty good results most of the time. On my X-E3 it only saves JPGs, dunno if it will save raw in auto on newest cameras, but even if not it is a really nice feature.If you really want big images in the hills look at stitching.So I'd buy the E4 or T30. Not sure which, probably the E4 with the 27/2.8 if you don't have that lens already.Hehe, thank you, I think once every 10 years is an acceptable upgrade interval, even if not strictly necessary.It's a good point that 16 to 26 Mpix is already 40% larger, that's probably enough for me. I have some 60*100 cm prints on my walls now from the 16 Mpix sensor. They are watchable from a couple of meters away, but I would definitively prefer a better DPI and the ability to crop. I also have to check out this Gigapixel software, it looks very handy to get more out of my current images. Thanks for the tip!What I'm really wondering is how much better the AF is in the newer Fuji bodies compared with my X-E1? It would be a real benefit if I could just point the thing at the skier with AF in auto/continuous tracking, fire of some bursts and expect to get at least half of the frames in focus with something like the XC 50-230mm. How's your experience with faster-moving subjects?As for the APSC systems of Sony and Canon, I have to confess that I'm not so worried about the lens selection... They both seem to have what I need already, so the biggest nuisance would be to sell off my current lenses (18-55, 50-230, 27/2.8 and 35/1.4) and buy new ones (not impossible, but a hassle). However, what undeniably would be a massive temptation is a potential Canon A7C equivalent.But you're right, what I should do (when this COVID nuisance eases off a bit) is to find a shop and try out the E4, T30 and S10 with my favorite gloves and waterproof bag. For the Sony's I would probably need to find someplace to rent to really get a feel for them...Thanks for your advice! Helps to get this process out of my head.X-E3 is still sold and the price level is really  suitable at the moment.  It could be one solution and you can keep the lenses.It is not a perfect camera for action photography, but AF is much better than with X-E1 (i have used X-E1 for years and now i like to use X-E3).It really is portable ! Easy to carry in a bag

Joel_O wrote:DarnGoodPhotos wrote:One feature the newest Fujis have is in-camera HDR which also saves a Raw. Check to see if the competing cameras also offer that.This is a multi-exposure mode in addition to the DR compensation? I've been very happy with the DR modes in the X-E1 one. Effective at preventing blown-out skies with quick shots.Its multi-exposure instead of DR which only affect JPGs.

DarnGoodPhotos wrote:Joel_O wrote:DarnGoodPhotos wrote:One feature the newest Fujis have is in-camera HDR which also saves a Raw. Check to see if the competing cameras also offer that.This is a multi-exposure mode in addition to the DR compensation? I've been very happy with the DR modes in the X-E1 one. Effective at preventing blown-out skies with quick shots.Its multi-exposure instead of DR which only affect JPGs.It is slower though because it does actually take 3 exposures instead of a single exposure.

a_c_skinner wrote:There is a fully functional 30 day trial if you want to find a few to try it on and make sure your hardware is up to it. My machines are pretty marginal so I need to go for coffee while they process but I print so few it doesn't matter.Thank you. So, now I have 30 days to upsample every single old image in my library. What am I going to tell work? It works well enough for me (around 1 min per image). I think the critical bit is to have a dedicated graphics card. Dug up some old pictures to try out and it really does wonders.Before:After:

Joel_O wrote:The Davinator wrote:By this, I mean on a regular basis. For landscapes, I’ve had no issue with even my old X-Pro1...which has the same sensor as your XE1...when printing a 16x24 print. With the new AI super rez in Photoshop, it appears that can now be 20x30 with little issue...maybe even 24x36.Thanks for the tip on the super rez in Photoshop. I use RawTherapee and Darkroom, so haven't stumbled upon it.I regularly print A4 (that's 16x24 inches, I guess?) and A3 sizes. Perfectly happy with the 16 Mpix for that. It's the big prints for my walls that I haven't been a 100% happy with. They are 60x100cm (close to 24x36). But I haven't used the AI upsampling tools that others have also mentioned. Definitively worth a try for my existing files. With any of the new camera options, I think the 24-26 Mpix will be plenty to both crop a bit and print over 1 square meter wall decoration.You may be fine with 16 then...but 24-26mp will definitely look a tad better at 24x36.

Auto ISO bracket records three frames from a single exposure.  Learned this on here.

Joel_O wrote:Hi everyone!I've been happily shooting with a Fuji X-E1 for the past 10 years. But now it's time for an upgrade. The question is to what. I thought of just getting the newest iteration of the X-E body, but it seems there is now a plethora of Fuji options (X-E4, X-T30 and X-S10) and new contenders from Canon (M6 MkII) and Sony (A6400, A6600 and A7C). I would therefore very much appreciate your advice.I mostly document my time in the mountains (examples below). It's obviously a lot of landscapes, but also people (portrait type) and some action (skiing). The body + general zoom lens (or prime) needs to fit into a 8x12x15 cm waterproof bag (with some stretch, see image below, the 50-230mm barely fits), so the X-T3 and X-T4 are out. Tripods and longer / bigger lenses stay in the car.have you thought about getting a slightly bigger bag? XT2/3/4 are weather proof bodies and combined with the 16-80 or the 18-135 can be a perfect match for your mountain excursions. Personally I use the XT3 while snowboarding in a small back bag (initially for cycling but works perfectly). That would be my first choice instead of changing systems.The X-E1 obviously works fine, but the 16 Mpx prevents larger prints and the AF is only good for single-spot focus (a PITA when trying to catch anything fast with cold fingers). I use out-of-camera JPG:s a lot, but for prints I usually edit RAW files. I would like to try my hands on some video clips, but stills are more important.This leaves me with the following thoughts.X-E4: Good size, but lack of grip could be a problem (especially with gloves on).X-T30: Only slighly bigger in size, but with decent grip.X-S10: IBIS is tempting for video and low-light stills, but is it too big and will it be impossible to operate with gloves? Especially the chunky exposure compensation dial in the other Fuji bodies is prizeless.M6 Mk II: Good size, has a small grip and should have a much more usable continuous / tracking autofocus than the Fujis (which would help with the skiing action), but the lack of built-in EVF could make it impossible to shoot anything on sunny days in the snow... JPG:s should be nice too.If size and weight are very important then I would suggest checking some good weather proof p&s cameras such as the old but very capable FZ300 (now found used at less than 300€] or the extremely capable RX10 III or IV. Don’t worry about the sensor size as the conditions you are showing have plenty of light.Another option would be a small weather proof m43 body such as the new EM5 iii or the older gx8. Again you will be amazed by the IQ in good light and by the plethora of small weather proof zoom lenses (12-40/2.8, 14-140 etc)A6400 & A6600: Both are acceptable size and the main differentiators between them seem to be price, weight, IBIS and weather sealing. But will I like the JPG:s and will it be too much of a hassle to change a setting, even if the AF rocks? Or am I just prejudices based on "common perceptions"?A7C: It's very tempting to get a FF camera in this size and weight class, but will it be overkill? There seems to be a good selection of small-enough lenses available to fit my dry-bag and I can have as many big lenses waiting in the car as I want. The same hesitation as above regarding JPG:s and usability apply. At least it has a chunky exp. comp. dial on top!you don’t need FF for such good light conditions and lenses are bigger and heavier than Fuji. If you indeed take size seriously, FF is not a good solution.All in all, it seems the safest bet would be the X-T30, but with the exception of the larger prints, could I really do something significantly more with it compared with the X-E1? Specs wise the Sonys are very tempting, but I am skeptical since I have no experience with them... And the Canon could be very perfect until you get the sun from the wrong angle!Oh, the joy and agony of gear.Any thoughts on how to proceed?

rlx wrote:Great pictures! I have much empathy with you while facing that problem. Camera designers are not all alpinists, hikers, sailors or canoe expedition amateurs apparently.I have no issues operating my X-El with gloves on in winter. The XT3 is not bad either but is larger. A feature I love on the X-T3 is the AF-C wide tracking and I use it to compose portraits embedded in scenery; point to the subject, press, frame and take the picture. All xtrans-4 cameras have that mode. I would go to the camera store with my gloves and see if I can operate the X_E4 or the X-T30 with the gloves on.Thank you! Indeed, some manufacturers even dare design their cameras for professional studio shooters! How dare they.That AF-C wide tracking mode sounds useful, have you tried with moving subjects? For someone standing still, it sounds like the same procedure I currently use with my single-focus spot.

Yannick,FZ300, RX10III, RX10IV, EM5 iii and GX8..all great suggestions, especially if mainly shooting in good light.

Yannis1976 wrote:have you thought about getting a slightly bigger bag? XT2/3/4 are weather proof bodies and combined with the 16-80 or the 18-135 can be a perfect match for your mountain excursions. Personally I use the XT3 while snowboarding in a small back bag (initially for cycling but works perfectly). That would be my first choice instead of changing systems.I have thought about it, but discarded the idea. I love my current bag way too much.Seriously though, I think the 16-80 lens would be great and fit my current bag with one of the smaller Fuji bodies.If size and weight are very important then I would suggest checking some good weather proof p&s cameras such as the old but very capable FZ300 (now found used at less than 300€] or the extremely capable RX10 III or IV. Don’t worry about the sensor size as the conditions you are showing have plenty of light.Another option would be a small weather proof m43 body such as the new EM5 iii or the older gx8. Again you will be amazed by the IQ in good light and by the plethora of small weather proof zoom lenses (12-40/2.8, 14-140 etc)Hmm, haven't really thought about p&s cams since I like mixing it up with good primes. I did think about the newer m43 bodies but discarded them based on the AF reviews. Better AF is one of the primary reasons for me to upgrade. I want to catch moving skiers without pre-focusing on a spot with a small aperture and wait for them to hit it. And despite these pictures all being in good light (I do shoot a lot in the soft dawn/dusk light, like the portrait).you don’t need FF for such good light conditions and lenses are bigger and heavier than Fuji. If you indeed take size seriously, FF is not a good solution.Yeah, you (and others) are right. I don't really need FF (but I wanted to entertain the idea!).I just need our lockdown to ease up so I can go to a shop and handle the smaller new Fuji bodies. I'm sure one of them will work. Not too concerned about weather sealing as the XE1 has survived for 10 years with plenty of abuse.

I’m getting used to the change in AF behavior moving from Sony to my X-H1. It’s not bad - I shot skiers at a resort with great results - but it’s not close. I expect the X-E4 will be way ahead of the X-E1, and ahead of my X-H1, so it might be the case that you get the X-E4 and love what you have - happily not knowing what you’re missing!