I have noticed a bunch of different threads that talk about focusing issues on the Z5.I have a Nikon D90, a D7000 and now a Z5 with me. The first two focuses just fine in both AF-S and AF-C.The Z 5 focuses just fine in AF-S for me. Please note that I am on FW version 1.10, which seems to be the latest on Nikon's website as of today.On the Z 5, I have tried the Z DX 16-50 and a 35 1.8G w/ FTZ adapter. With any of these lenses, I experience pretty unusable AF-C performance (sometimes even in very bright conditions).With either of my D90 or D7000, in similar lighting, and in AF-C, the focus will usually lock on stationary subjects within a second or two at most. When pointing to a new target, the focus changes again within a second or two.With the Z5, in the same light conditions with AF-S, the focus works perfectly. Focus will change from subject to subject flawlessly when I trigger the AF-ON or half press the shutter. The focus locks with a nice beep and a green box.However, the story is different in AF-C. Now I know that the box never turns green in AF-C. But the focus hunting even with stationary objects is incredibly bad. If I shoot continuously with AF-C, more than half the shots are just out of focus. It's not like the camera cannot focus under these same conditions in AF-S (which is why I think it's a major firmware/hardware problem on SOME Z 5 units - since a lot of people don't seem to experience any such issue?). The focus does shift from object to object at different depths, but there is always this rapid pulsing around the perfect focus which causes the mode to be unusable. The only workaround I have found is to use AF-S all the time.For me, the settings for low-light AF, metering modes or Focus Area modes have not made any difference. It has really come down to AF-S vs AF-C.I have a replacement Z 5 coming in from my retailer, and I hope the new unit does not experience the same problem. If it does, I am not sure what I am going to do with the Z 16-50 lens I picked up! If you are in the Ottawa area in Canada, maybe I can sell it to ya

I have the same issue with my AF-S DX 35mm F1.8G in AF-C mode, especially in high contrast and low contrast situations. And only with that lens so far. Not clear if that is the lens you are referring to or the the full frame AF-S 35mm F1.8G ED lens.The other 5 lenses I have tried on my Z5 (14-30Z F4, 24-70Z F4, AF-S 70-300G F4.5-5.6G, AF-P 70-300 F4.5-5.6E, AF-S DX 18-140 - last 3 with FTZ of course) are just fine.Doing the following helped with the improve AF-C behavior with the DX 35 F1.8G, but it still doesn't focus as well as in AF-S, especially if there is not much vertical detail in the focus area:- Turned Custom setting #D7 to off- turned VR off- turned off #A4 (though not helpful if you want face/eye detect).- ISO 800 or lowerThere are probably a couple of other things I can play with.This lens was also was also my slowest focusing lens on my D7100, but still much quicker than on the Z5.

Options:1) Use AF-C on moving subjects and AF-S on stationary subjects as the manual directs.2) Use AF-C with back button focus (shutter button half press focus disabled) to acquire focus and then release the button once focus is achieved.3) Set Focus Tracking With Lock On at 5 and see if that helps.

Think you need at least one Z S lens to try on your Z5, to see how it behaves with lenses designed for it.

archerscreek wrote:Options:1) Use AF-C on moving subjects and AF-S on stationary subjects as the manual directs.2) Use AF-C with back button focus (shutter button half press focus disabled) to acquire focus and then release the button once focus is achieved.3) Set Focus Tracking With Lock On at 5 and see if that helps.Good points.  Focus Tracking is another thing that I have been tweaking.I didn't mention that my issues the the 35 DX f1.8 lens and AF-C were primarily in lower lighting condition - indoors and also outdoors in shade in some situations.  Outside and sunny just fine.  So maybe less an issue than for OP.

Yup, I have the same exact issues. I'm currently testing it on the Z5 and the 50mm 1.8 S for the past week and whenever I tried to AFC - Tracking it with my kids or simply on flowers in perfect lights, about 1/3 of the shots will be out of focus. If I AF-S it, then it's tack sharp. AF-C is pretty essential for me as my 1 year old never stand still. On my A7RII with AF-C and Eye AF, it actually works better than the Z5 at this moment and that system is pretty old. Going to try to see if I can improve it some how this week, if not, I will have to return it and stay with Sony which sucks because I love everything about the Z5 and the 50mm 1.8 S.

KHTP wrote:Yup, I have the same exact issues. I'm currently testing it on the Z5 and the 50mm 1.8 S for the past week and whenever I tried to AFC - Tracking it with my kids or simply on flowers in perfect lights, about 1/3 of the shots will be out of focus. If I AF-S it, then it's tack sharp. AF-C is pretty essential for me as my 1 year old never stand still. On my A7RII with AF-C and Eye AF, it actually works better than the Z5 at this moment and that system is pretty old. Going to try to see if I can improve it some how this week, if not, I will have to return it and stay with Sony which sucks because I love everything about the Z5 and the 50mm 1.8 S.Try using Dynamic instead of Auto area or Wide People with the eye box or tracking box. Dynamic should be usable. I’ve said it before, but for me and my Z 6ii, Nikon’s tracking and eye boxes are nothing but a gimmick. Dynamic works so much better than the tracking box and face and eye boxes for me.

NCB wrote:Think you need at least one Z S lens to try on your Z5, to see how it behaves with lenses designed for it.I had gone to the store and tried the Nikkor Z 24-50mm kit lens on my Z 5 body, and experienced the same issues in AF-C.

SoCalAngler wrote:I have the same issue with my AF-S DX 35mm F1.8G in AF-C mode, especially in high contrast and low contrast situations. And only with that lens so far. Not clear if that is the lens you are referring to or the the full frame AF-S 35mm F1.8G ED lens.The other 5 lenses I have tried on my Z5 (14-30Z F4, 24-70Z F4, AF-S 70-300G F4.5-5.6G, AF-P 70-300 F4.5-5.6E, AF-S DX 18-140 - last 3 with FTZ of course) are just fine.Doing the following helped with the improve AF-C behavior with the DX 35 F1.8G, but it still doesn't focus as well as in AF-S, especially if there is not much vertical detail in the focus area:- Turned Custom setting #D7 to off- turned VR off- turned off #A4 (though not helpful if you want face/eye detect).- ISO 800 or lowerThere are probably a couple of other things I can play with.This lens was also was also my slowest focusing lens on my D7100, but still much quicker than on the Z5.For me the issue is reproducible in any light with any of my lenses. No issues in AF-S in all the lighting conditions and all the lenses, but terrible in AF-C a lot of the time. On rare occasions the focus will magically work fine in AF-C one moment, and then fail the next. Also, I have tried AF-F in Video mode, and the focus holds just fine! So the camera is definitely capable of focusing and holding focus, but there must be a problem in AF-C mode where the software/hardware is going berserk.

Maybe you are just not used to the Z focus.Watch Ricci's tutorial first.https://youtu.be/lWIoYOv9kRg

archerscreek wrote:KHTP wrote:Yup, I have the same exact issues. I'm currently testing it on the Z5 and the 50mm 1.8 S for the past week and whenever I tried to AFC - Tracking it with my kids or simply on flowers in perfect lights, about 1/3 of the shots will be out of focus. If I AF-S it, then it's tack sharp. AF-C is pretty essential for me as my 1 year old never stand still. On my A7RII with AF-C and Eye AF, it actually works better than the Z5 at this moment and that system is pretty old. Going to try to see if I can improve it some how this week, if not, I will have to return it and stay with Sony which sucks because I love everything about the Z5 and the 50mm 1.8 S.Try using Dynamic instead of Auto area or Wide People with the eye box or tracking box. Dynamic should be usable. I’ve said it before, but for me and my Z 6ii, Nikon’s tracking and eye boxes are nothing but a gimmick. Dynamic works so much better than the tracking box and face and eye boxes for me.Thanks for the tip. I'll check it out with Dynamic.

archerscreek wrote:Options:1) Use AF-C on moving subjects and AF-S on stationary subjects as the manual directs.I wonder if the Z5 is really supposed to be that different from my Z6 and Z7II.  I use AF-C full time and they focus perfectly on everything.2) Use AF-C with back button focus (shutter button half press focus disabled) to acquire focus and then release the button once focus is achieved.I shoot while the BBF button is being held in with no issue.  I want it to be focusing continually if either me or the subject is moving even slightly.   Again, not with the Z5 but are they that diffrent?3) Set Focus Tracking With Lock On at 5 and see if that helps.

THE Z5 SIMPLY STRUGGLES IN MEDIUM INDOOR LIGHTING, and there are likely technical explanations for it regrading the sensor and processor.The Z5 is fine in extremely low light and daylight.I've tried three copies of the Z5, used every Z but not the Z6. I've used them side-by-side with a D750 and D500 as well. I have similar 1.8 primes and various Z lenses to compare. Just didn't have the 2.8 zooms which seem to be superior on Z's (Hudson Henry gets amazing results even on the Z50.)Half the time, all things equal, even my Z7II is slower in medium indoor light and shadows than my D750, but it is usable. It does mean you could miss a pose or opportunity when critical timing is needed. At the same time, using an OVF you can't see into the shadows like you can with an EVF.I also feel that subject tracking should be on par with a smartphone.I'd like to see a simple face tracking setting over eye tracking to make it easier to select faces.If I'm using slow glass above F4 I don't generally need eye level precision.  I was pretty happy with my D500 results.  The more I think about it the more I support this opinion. I've also used the Canon and Sony systems and they are that much better.

I was facing absolutely the same experience with my Z5. Trying everything but the result: AF-S every image absolutely sharp, AF-C very inconsistent results even on static subjects. I have made a risk and switched to Z6 II and everything is perfect. Totally happy with Z6 II.

I know this is an old thread, but I got a Z5 recently and noticed that at smallish apertures, say F5.6 or smaller, using single point AF-C mode hunts like crazy. This occurs with my Z mount S lenses (35mm and 50mm F1.8 lenses) and Nikon F mount 70-300mm AF-S with FTZII adapter. The autofocus hunting is worst (and also loudest) with the zoom lens. I went to a local camera store and tested a Z6II and same thing happens with it. So I think it is inherently related to how the autofocus works with the Nikon Z bodies with regards to aperture size.I am curious what your apertures were set to when you're having your AF issues in AF-C mode, especially with your 35mm F1.8G lens.

skyrunr wrote:THE Z5 SIMPLY STRUGGLES IN MEDIUM INDOOR LIGHTING, and there are likely technical explanations for it regrading the sensor and processor.The Z5 is fine in extremely low light and daylightI've tried three copies of the Z5, used every Z but not the Z6. I've used them side-by-side with a D750 and D500 as well. I have similar 1.8 primes and various Z lenses to compare. Just didn't have the 2.8 zooms which seem to be superior on Z's (Hudson Henry gets amazing results even on the Z50.)Half the time, all things equal, even my Z7II is slower in medium indoor light and shadows than my D750, but it is usable. It does mean you could miss a pose or opportunity when critical timing is needed. At the same time, using an OVF you can't see into the shadows like you can with an EVF.I also feel that subject tracking should be on par with a smartphone.I'd like to see a simple face tracking setting over eye tracking to make it easier to select faces.If I'm using slow glass above F4 I don't generally need eye level precision. I was pretty happy with my D500 results. The more I think about it the more I support this opinion. I've also used the Canon and Sony systems and they are that much better.Thanks for the heads up about the Z5.  I've been super happy with my Z6 and Z7II in most all conditions.  No hard core sports or BIF though.

Hi skyrunr, because I am new to dpreview, I can't reply to your private message. So if you don't mind, I'd like to reply here.I have the 70-300mm "G" AF-S lens, not AF-P. Regardless, this AF-C autofocus hunting issue isn't a lens issue, I think it is inherent with Z5 and possibly other Z bodies. I am experiencing this even with my Nikon Z fast prime lenses.Basically, what I am experiencing is regardless of the lens or at least with the lenses that I have in my possession, when shooting with small apertures say > f4, the autofocus hunts severely when using single point and also dynamic AF-C modes. I am a long time DSLR shooter and I can say without a doubt, none of my Nikon DSLRs exhibit this behavior and what I mean is, AF hunting that negatively correlates with aperture size (the smaller the aperture, the greater the intensity of AF hunting).I think it has something to do with the fact that the Z bodies stop down to the actual aperture that you set to (well up to f5.6) in real time, whereas in contrast, the DSLRs don't stop down the aperture until at shutter time.This issue or inherent autofocusing "quirk" is easily replicated (you'll need to have fast prime or zoom lenses as you need wide apertures). Just set your autofocus mode to AF-C, single point. Then set your aperture of your lens to wide open and just observe or even here the AF motor of the lens you're using when you active your autofocus ( I use the back button for AF activation ). Now set your aperture to something like f5.6 or like f8), you will see dramatic increase or intensity of autofocus hunting. For me, it was like night and day difference. Just to make sure I wasn't crazy, I put my 70-300mm lens back onto my D700 and it hardly autofocus hunts in single point or 3D tracking AF-C mode.This really doesn't impact me since I am a "wide open" shooter. I just happen to notice or experience this issue when I decided to try out my F-mount, slow 70-300mm AF-S lens at 300mm, which as we know, at this focal length, it will stop down to f5.6 as its widest aperture. That's when I was blown away by how intense the autofocus hunting was.I would probably be concerned if I regularly have a need to shoot in AF-C mode with small apertures or if I'm stuck with slow zoom lenses.EDIT: FWIW, I do have the latest firmware installed.

pybokeh wrote:Hi skyrunr, because I am new to dpreview, I can't reply to your private message. So if you don't mind, I'd like to reply here.I have the 70-300mm "G" AF-S lens, not AF-P. Regardless, this AF-C autofocus hunting issue isn't a lens issue, I think it is inherent with Z5 and possibly other Z bodies. I am experiencing this even with my Nikon Z fast prime lenses.Basically, what I am experiencing is regardless of the lens or at least with the lenses that I have in my possession, when shooting with small apertures say > f4, the autofocus hunts severely when using single point and also dynamic AF-C modes. I am a long time DSLR shooter and I can say without a doubt, none of my Nikon DSLRs exhibit this behavior and what I mean is, AF hunting that negatively correlates with aperture size (the smaller the aperture, the greater the intensity of AF hunting).I think it has something to do with the fact that the Z bodies stop down to the actual aperture that you set to (well up to f5.6) in real time, whereas in contrast, the DSLRs don't stop down the aperture until at shutter time.This issue or inherent autofocusing "quirk" is easily replicated (you'll need to have fast prime or zoom lenses as you need wide apertures). Just set your autofocus mode to AF-C, single point. Then set your aperture of your lens to wide open and just observe or even here the AF motor of the lens you're using when you active your autofocus ( I use the back button for AF activation ). Now set your aperture to something like f5.6 or like f8), you will see dramatic increase or intensity of autofocus hunting. For me, it was like night and day difference. Just to make sure I wasn't crazy, I put my 70-300mm lens back onto my D700 and it hardly autofocus hunts in single point or 3D tracking AF-C mode.This really doesn't impact me since I am a "wide open" shooter. I just happen to notice or experience this issue when I decided to try out my F-mount, slow 70-300mm AF-S lens at 300mm, which as we know, at this focal length, it will stop down to f5.6 as its widest aperture. That's when I was blown away by how intense the autofocus hunting was.I would probably be concerned if I regularly have a need to shoot in AF-C mode with small apertures or if I'm stuck with slow zoom lenses.EDIT: FWIW, I do have the latest firmware installed.I have been using a Z5 for 18 months nowI rarely have focusing hunting issues in most situations regardless of selected aperture provided:a)The subject fills the focus area, though if the subject is brighter than the background I usually don't get hunting.b)There is sufficient contrast in the in the subject.c)There is some sort of detail across the horizontal axis (vertical or angled things). With Z mirrorless we don't have the cross type sensors that the DSLRS had in their central areas. Where there is not much vertical detail in the focus box I can often get my Z5 to focus by tilting it slightly or changing to portrait orientation.d)With telephotos lenses it helps to pre-focus manually at roughly expected subject distance.e)Set exposure (aperture and shutter speed) parameters in combination with ISO so that you have bright image (in Manual mode meter is on zero to +/- 1 EV if spot metering. Sometimes I can still get quick focus on dimmer subjects if there is still good contrast and detail, but if the target is brighter in the EVF/Monitor focus tends to be quicker with less hunting.f) in really low light consider turning #D7g) in really low light AF-S focuses faster (low light af kicks in if enabled)Right now, in my office which is lit by an open window with closed translucent curtain and overcast day I can see the difference in focus performance with changes to camera settings. I happen to have a Z 24-120 F/4 lens on. There are two ball caps on a hat rack about 10 feet from me. One is all olive, with no decorations and almost no contrast - the only detail is the stitching. The other is red and white with a multicolored fish embroidered on it (lots of detail, variable contrast across different areas of the hat). I have the lens zoomed to 120mm. AF-C and Dynamic Area. Manual exposure set to F22 and shutter speed to 30" and ISO 100 (meter shows 2+ stop under exposed but its worse than that - meter bar is blinking). If I manually throw the lens way out of focus it slides to focus on the red white hat if the shutter speed is slow enough and/or ISO is high enough and the center box of the dynamic area is on some detail of the fish or the sharp red to white transition. If its just on an all red or all white portion of the hat it hunts (no detail or contrast). It just hunts endlessly on the olive hat. Even if I manually focus on the olive hat first it will still hunt. If I switch to Wide-Area small, it picks up more detail and contrast changes in the red/white hat and focuses faster on the red hat (larger focus box picks up more detail and contrast), but still hunts on the olive hat. If I change to different combinations of shutter speed, aperture, and ISO I can see differences in focus behavior. I cant slow the shutter speed without going to Bulb but I can open the aperture or increase ISO while reducing shutter speed (I dont want to wait 30"), which can result in faster focus acquisition as long as I have detail and contrast under the focus box.I have the AF-P 70-300E and had the AF-A 70-300G (which I have since sold). The AF-P focuses faster but while learning the Z focus system I also used the AF-S 70-300G version in AF-C with Dynamic area at still had it snap quickly to focus provided the hummingbird filled the central focus area box , and shooting at 1/2000 sec and f/8, had the ISO up enough to have a sufficiently exposed and bright image. Depending on light, ISO was between 800 and 2000. The humming birds had good detail and contrast in the feather detail, so as long as I kept the focus box on the bird the camera/lens didn't hunt. Most of the missed shots were due to me moving the camera or the bird moving out of the larger dynamic area box area.Now that I have typed this, the sun has come out and the room is much brighter and at f/11 in aperture priority and ISO 100 shutter speed is 1.6" (so about between EV 5 and 6).  There is now some contrast from a shadow on the olive hat and the stitching is more prominant. The camera focuses quickly on both hats.

A little more regarding Z focus and ambient light vs exposurehttps://www.zsystemuser.com/nikon-z-system-news-and/reader-questions-answered.htmlI started to suspect this was the case before I read this, and some other comments in Thom's writings.  But this article lead me to feel more confident that there was something to my own observations and start experimenting more.

SoCalAngler wrote:pybokeh wrote:Hi skyrunr, because I am new to dpreview, I can't reply to your private message. So if you don't mind, I'd like to reply here.I have the 70-300mm "G" AF-S lens, not AF-P. Regardless, this AF-C autofocus hunting issue isn't a lens issue, I think it is inherent with Z5 and possibly other Z bodies. I am experiencing this even with my Nikon Z fast prime lenses.Basically, what I am experiencing is regardless of the lens or at least with the lenses that I have in my possession, when shooting with small apertures say > f4, the autofocus hunts severely when using single point and also dynamic AF-C modes. I am a long time DSLR shooter and I can say without a doubt, none of my Nikon DSLRs exhibit this behavior and what I mean is, AF hunting that negatively correlates with aperture size (the smaller the aperture, the greater the intensity of AF hunting).I think it has something to do with the fact that the Z bodies stop down to the actual aperture that you set to (well up to f5.6) in real time, whereas in contrast, the DSLRs don't stop down the aperture until at shutter time.This issue or inherent autofocusing "quirk" is easily replicated (you'll need to have fast prime or zoom lenses as you need wide apertures). Just set your autofocus mode to AF-C, single point. Then set your aperture of your lens to wide open and just observe or even hear the AF motor of the lens you're using when you activate your autofocus ( I use the back button for AF activation ). Now set your aperture to something like f5.6 or like f8), you will see dramatic increase or intensity of autofocus hunting. For me, it was like night and day difference. Just to make sure I wasn't crazy, I put my 70-300mm lens back onto my D700 and it hardly autofocus hunts in single point or 3D tracking AF-C mode.This really doesn't impact me since I am a "wide open" shooter. I just happen to notice or experience this issue when I decided to try out my F-mount, slow 70-300mm AF-S lens at 300mm, which as we know, at this focal length, it will stop down to f5.6 as its widest aperture. That's when I was blown away by how intense the autofocus hunting was.I would probably be concerned if I regularly have a need to shoot in AF-C mode with small apertures or if I'm stuck with slow zoom lenses.EDIT: FWIW, I do have the latest firmware installed.I have been using a Z5 for 18 months nowI rarely have focusing hunting issues in most situations regardless of selected aperture provided:a)The subject fills the focus area, though if the subject is brighter than the background I usually don't get hunting.b)There is sufficient contrast in the in the subject.c)There is some sort of detail across the horizontal axis (vertical or angled things). With Z mirrorless we don't have the cross type sensors that the DSLRS had in their central areas. Where there is not much vertical detail in the focus box I can often get my Z5 to focus by tilting it slightly or changing to portrait orientation.d)With telephotos lenses it helps to pre-focus manually at roughly expected subject distance.e)Set exposure (aperture and shutter speed) parameters in combination with ISO so that you have bright image (in Manual mode meter is on zero to +/- 1 EV if spot metering. Sometimes I can still get quick focus on dimmer subjects if there is still good contrast and detail, but if the target is brighter in the EVF/Monitor focus tends to be quicker with less hunting.f) in really low light consider turning #D7g) in really low light AF-S focuses faster (low light af kicks in if enabled)Right now, in my office which is lit by an open window with closed translucent curtain and overcast day I can see the difference in focus performance with changes to camera settings. I happen to have a Z 24-120 F/4 lens on. There are two ball caps on a hat rack about 10 feet from me. One is all olive, with no decorations and almost no contrast - the only detail is the stitching. The other is red and white with a multicolored fish embroidered on it (lots of detail, variable contrast across different areas of the hat). I have the lens zoomed to 120mm. AF-C and Dynamic Area. Manual exposure set to F22 and shutter speed to 30" and ISO 100 (meter shows 2+ stop under exposed but its worse than that - meter bar is blinking). If I manually throw the lens way out of focus it slides to focus on the red white hat if the shutter speed is slow enough and/or ISO is high enough and the center box of the dynamic area is on some detail of the fish or the sharp red to white transition. If its just on an all red or all white portion of the hat it hunts (no detail or contrast). It just hunts endlessly on the olive hat. Even if I manually focus on the olive hat first it will still hunt. If I switch to Wide-Area small, it picks up more detail and contrast changes in the red/white hat and focuses faster on the red hat (larger focus box picks up more detail and contrast), but still hunts on the olive hat. If I change to different combinations of shutter speed, aperture, and ISO I can see differences in focus behavior. I cant slow the shutter speed without going to Bulb but I can open the aperture or increase ISO while reducing shutter speed (I dont want to wait 30"), which can result in faster focus acquisition as long as I have detail and contrast under the focus box.I have the AF-P 70-300E and had the AF-A 70-300G (which I have since sold). The AF-P focuses faster but while learning the Z focus system I also used the AF-S 70-300G version in AF-C with Dynamic area at still had it snap quickly to focus provided the hummingbird filled the central focus area box , and shooting at 1/2000 sec and f/8, had the ISO up enough to have a sufficiently exposed and bright image. Depending on light, ISO was between 800 and 2000. The humming birds had good detail and contrast in the feather detail, so as long as I kept the focus box on the bird the camera/lens didn't hunt. Most of the missed shots were due to me moving the camera or the bird moving out of the larger dynamic area box area.Now that I have typed this, the sun has come out and the room is much brighter and at f/11 in aperture priority and ISO 100 shutter speed is 1.6" (so about between EV 5 and 6). There is now some contrast from a shadow on the olive hat and the stitching is more prominant. The camera focuses quickly on both hats.Have you tried testing by comparing autofocus hunting at large apertures versus small apertures when autofocusing onsamesubject?  That is how I establish a baseline so that I am comparing apples with apples.  So your premise on type of subject, detail across horizontal axis, contrast, etc is sort of moot point if I am testing onsamesubject.  For me the autofocus hunting definitely hunts more with smaller apertures.  This behavior does not occur with any of my DSLRs and again it is because of how the Z bodies actually stop down to the apertures in real time instead of at shutter activation time.