Hi FolkLens finally arrived but haven't had chance to use it myself as I've been travelling.Loons quitea big tool.I will be at a 3 year old child's birthday party on Saturday where I will be camera man.I would appreciate any tips on settings to help me grab photos of this child and her friends party.For example tracking settings and any advice on the shallow effects of the F2 aperture.Thanks folks in advance

Ephemeris wrote:Hi FolkLens finally arrived but haven't had chance to use it myself as I've been travelling.Loons quitea big tool.I will be at a 3 year old child's birthday party on Saturday where I will be camera man.I would appreciate any tips on settings to help me grab photos of this child and her friends party.For example tracking settings and any advice on the shallow effects of the F2 aperture.Thanks folks in advanceFv or Av and set aperture to f/2 and dial up as needed; keep in mind f/number vs number of subjects. Min shutter at 1/125 in custom menu. IBIS although effective, you’re dealing with moving subjects at parties.The 28-70 is unique in sometimes you need to stop down, unlike say a 24-70 f/2.8 where you “hug” 2.8, on the 28-70, still “hug” wide open, but you might want to consider a DoF simulation button assignment and keep in mind when shooting groups of people to stop down.I shoot mine “naked”, but I do keep the hood on 24x7. It protects that front element.You’re going to really start to consider what effect and what aperture you want as you use this lens. Now that aperture is on tap at all times, you have creative freedom. Don’t be afraid to use f/11 when appropriate either. Some of my best shots are stopped down. But far more, most in fact are f/2, you should certainly start there.The 28, 35, 50, 70 markers you’re gonna get used to what “look” or perspective you want too. Again, now that you have f/2, a fantastic one wide open, you may find yourself wanting a traditional 50mm “look” and backing up, rather than shooting 28mm. Honestly I use 28 the most, followed closely by 35, then 50 and lastly 70. Again, this lens has power, you have to decide now what you want, now that you have choices previously out of reach…

>>Fv or Av and set aperture to f/2 and dial up as needed; keep in mind f/number vs number of subjects. Min shutter at 1/125 in custom menu.<<<

Congratulations on the lens. I was going back and forth to either purchase the RF 28-70 or the RF 24-70 2.8.I went with the 24-70 2.8. I had run some data in Lightroom over the past year and most of my apertures were 2.8 or higher. If I need f2 or below I either use my RF 85 1.2L  or RF 50 1.2L. Not saying I wouldn’t ever buy the 28-70 but my shooting habits don’t warrant it at this time.If you can with respect to the group you are photographing I would enjoy to see some of the shots you took with the new lens especially if you were around the F2 aperture. Perhaps you can follow-up on this thread with some photos.Enjoy!

I think nothing is different in the shooting technique from any other lens.At least I am not doing anything different when I shoot with f/1.4 prime or f/4 zoom. It is the subject what determines how I set my camera not the lens.

Joe Reynolds wrote:>>Fv or Av and set aperture to f/2 and dial up as needed; keep in mind f/number vs number of subjects. Min shutter at 1/125 in custom menu.<<<

Ephemeris wrote:Hi FolkLens finally arrived but haven't had chance to use it myself as I've been travelling.Loons quitea big tool.I will be at a 3 year old child's birthday party on Saturday where I will be camera man.I would appreciate any tips on settings to help me grab photos of this child and her friends party.For example tracking settings and any advice on the shallow effects of the F2 aperture.Thanks folks in advanceWow! Congratulations to a state-of-the art setup! That lens is unfortunately way out of reach for me but I do smile when some can enjoy it!If you feel insecure about how to handle it and the camera I would recommend stopping it down on that party until you know how quick and unpredictable those little toddlers are. Don't shoot wide open just because you can.

cpharm86 wrote:Congratulations on the lens. I was going back and forth to either purchase the RF 28-70 or the RF 24-70 2.8.I went with the 24-70 2.8. I had run some data in Lightroom over the past year and most of my apertures were 2.8 or higher. If I need f2 or below I either use my RF 85 1.2L or RF 50 1.2L. Not saying I wouldn’t ever buy the 28-70 but my shooting habits don’t warrant it at this time.If you can with respect to the group you are photographing I would enjoy to see some of the shots you took with the new lens especially if you were around the F2 aperture. Perhaps you can follow-up on this thread with some photos.Enjoy!I rented both,The IS / Size versus f2 was the decision. Found I used 2.8+ 90% of the time so...

RLight wrote:Ephemeris wrote:Hi FolkLens finally arrived but haven't had chance to use it myself as I've been travelling.Loons quitea big tool.I will be at a 3 year old child's birthday party on Saturday where I will be camera man.I would appreciate any tips on settings to help me grab photos of this child and her friends party.For example tracking settings and any advice on the shallow effects of the F2 aperture.Thanks folks in advanceFirst of all thankyou for a comprehensive post.Fv or Av and set aperture to f/2 and dial up as needed; keep in mind f/number vs number of subjects. Min shutter at 1/125 in custom menu. IBIS although effective, you’re dealing with moving subjects at parties.That makes sense. How do I set the minimum shutter ?The 28-70 is unique in sometimes you need to stop down, unlike say a 24-70 f/2.8 where you “hug” 2.8, on the 28-70, still “hug” wide open, but you might want to consider a DoF simulation button assignment and keep in mind when shooting groups of people to stop down.My brain was saying I would use it at f2 most of the time to get the most of the light.I shoot mine “naked”, but I do keep the hood on 24x7. It protects that front element.Okay I don't normally use hoods unless it's sunny. I'll pop it on as I will have young children and likely adults behaving as children around.You’re going to really start to consider what effect and what aperture you want as you use this lens. Now that aperture is on tap at all times, you have creative freedom. Don’t be afraid to use f/11 when appropriate either. Some of my best shots are stopped down. But far more, most in fact are f/2, you should certainly start there.I understand. In sure I will come away with some one eye in focus and one eye outside the DOF.The 28, 35, 50, 70 markers you’re gonna get used to what “look” or perspective you want too. Again, now that you have f/2, a fantastic one wide open, you may find yourself wanting a traditional 50mm “look” and backing up, rather than shooting 28mm. Honestly I use 28 the most, followed closely by 35, then 50 and lastly 70. Again, this lens has power, you have to decide now what you want, now that you have choices previously out of reach…Thanks that's a really helpful post.

Ephemeris wrote:RLight wrote:Ephemeris wrote:Hi FolkLens finally arrived but haven't had chance to use it myself as I've been travelling.Loons quitea big tool.I will be at a 3 year old child's birthday party on Saturday where I will be camera man.I would appreciate any tips on settings to help me grab photos of this child and her friends party.For example tracking settings and any advice on the shallow effects of the F2 aperture.Thanks folks in advanceFirst of all thankyou for a comprehensive post.Fv or Av and set aperture to f/2 and dial up as needed; keep in mind f/number vs number of subjects. Min shutter at 1/125 in custom menu. IBIS although effective, you’re dealing with moving subjects at parties.That makes sense. How do I set the minimum shutter ?Varies, its on my R3 under custom menu 2, “set shutter speed range”. Set the lowest speed to 125. I had this setup under Mode C1. I had a mode C2 where this was 1/250. These days I have it set under “my menu” so I can quickly find it and don’t use C modes any more and stick to Fv.The 28-70 is unique in sometimes you need to stop down, unlike say a 24-70 f/2.8 where you “hug” 2.8, on the 28-70, still “hug” wide open, but you might want to consider a DoF simulation button assignment and keep in mind when shooting groups of people to stop down.My brain was saying I would use it at f2 most of the time to get the most of the light.Youre correct. Just reminding that it can do more than 2, but I spend 75% of the time at f/2.I shoot mine “naked”, but I do keep the hood on 24x7. It protects that front element.Okay I don't normally use hoods unless it's sunny. I'll pop it on as I will have young children and likely adults behaving as children around.It’ll bump into people, but that hood has saved my lens too many timesYou’re going to really start to consider what effect and what aperture you want as you use this lens. Now that aperture is on tap at all times, you have creative freedom. Don’t be afraid to use f/11 when appropriate either. Some of my best shots are stopped down. But far more, most in fact are f/2, you should certainly start there.I understand. In sure I will come away with some one eye in focus and one eye outside the DOF.No, f/2 is fine for one person, just not 2 or more.The 28, 35, 50, 70 markers you’re gonna get used to what “look” or perspective you want too. Again, now that you have f/2, a fantastic one wide open, you may find yourself wanting a traditional 50mm “look” and backing up, rather than shooting 28mm. Honestly I use 28 the most, followed closely by 35, then 50 and lastly 70. Again, this lens has power, you have to decide now what you want, now that you have choices previously out of reach…Thanks that's a really helpful post.

RLight wrote:Ephemeris wrote:RLight wrote:Ephemeris wrote:Hi FolkLens finally arrived but haven't had chance to use it myself as I've been travelling.Loons quitea big tool.I will be at a 3 year old child's birthday party on Saturday where I will be camera man.I would appreciate any tips on settings to help me grab photos of this child and her friends party.For example tracking settings and any advice on the shallow effects of the F2 aperture.Thanks folks in advanceFirst of all thankyou for a comprehensive post.Fv or Av and set aperture to f/2 and dial up as needed; keep in mind f/number vs number of subjects. Min shutter at 1/125 in custom menu. IBIS although effective, you’re dealing with moving subjects at parties.That makes sense. How do I set the minimum shutter ?Varies, its on my R3 under custom menu 2, “set shutter speed range”. Set the lowest speed to 125. I had this setup under Mode C1. I had a mode C2 where this was 1/250. These days I have it set under “my menu” so I can quickly find it and don’t use C modes any more and stick to Fv.Thank you. I'm mostly Fv user or Av sometimes. I'll find it from that.The 28-70 is unique in sometimes you need to stop down, unlike say a 24-70 f/2.8 where you “hug” 2.8, on the 28-70, still “hug” wide open, but you might want to consider a DoF simulation button assignment and keep in mind when shooting groups of people to stop down.My brain was saying I would use it at f2 most of the time to get the most of the light.Youre correct. Just reminding that it can do more than 2, but I spend 75% of the time at f/2Totally understand thank you..I shoot mine “naked”, but I do keep the hood on 24x7. It protects that front element.Okay I don't normally use hoods unless it's sunny. I'll pop it on as I will have young children and likely adults behaving as children around.It’ll bump into people, but that hood has saved my lens too many timesI no doubt will come back thankyou from someone bashing me.You’re going to really start to consider what effect and what aperture you want as you use this lens. Now that aperture is on tap at all times, you have creative freedom. Don’t be afraid to use f/11 when appropriate either. Some of my best shots are stopped down. But far more, most in fact are f/2, you should certainly start there.I understand. In sure I will come away with some one eye in focus and one eye outside the DOF.No, f/2 is fine for one person, just not 2 or more.UnderstoodThe 28, 35, 50, 70 markers you’re gonna get used to what “look” or perspective you want too. Again, now that you have f/2, a fantastic one wide open, you may find yourself wanting a traditional 50mm “look” and backing up, rather than shooting 28mm. Honestly I use 28 the most, followed closely by 35, then 50 and lastly 70. Again, this lens has power, you have to decide now what you want, now that you have choices previously out of reach…Thanks that's a really helpful post.

cpharm86 wrote:Congratulations on the lens. I was going back and forth to either purchase the RF 28-70 or the RF 24-70 2.8.Thank you. It's a big outlay for us and only time will tell to see what the glidepath looks like to pay for itself.I have only taken a few shots in-between meetings and still tired from flying but it seems nice to use. AF I would say isn't as fast as our 70-200 f2.8 but its pretty quick.I went with the 24-70 2.8. I had run some data in Lightroom over the past year and most of my apertures were 2.8 or higher. If I need f2 or below I either use my RF 85 1.2L or RF 50 1.2L. Not saying I wouldn’t ever buy the 28-70 but my shooting habits don’t warrant it at this time.That's an interesting analytical method I'd like to know more. I wonder if you had F2 available if your distribution would have changed.If you can with respect to the group you are photographing I would enjoy to see some of the shots you took with the new lens especially if you were around the F2 aperture. Perhaps you can follow-up on this thread with some photos.Will try, can't say my home shots will be any good.Enjoy!

RLight wrote:I understand. In sure I will come away with some one eye in focus and one eye outside the DOF.No, f/2 is fine for one person, just not 2 or more.My maximum is 2 with 40mm & f/1.4.  With a little bit of practice you can always get 2 points in the plain of focus by moving yourself. With 3 points you're out of control.With 2 persons you can capture eye contact expressions.  Worth it!

Morvegil wrote:cpharm86 wrote:Congratulations on the lens. I was going back and forth to either purchase the RF 28-70 or the RF 24-70 2.8.I went with the 24-70 2.8. I had run some data in Lightroom over the past year and most of my apertures were 2.8 or higher. If I need f2 or below I either use my RF 85 1.2L or RF 50 1.2L. Not saying I wouldn’t ever buy the 28-70 but my shooting habits don’t warrant it at this time.If you can with respect to the group you are photographing I would enjoy to see some of the shots you took with the new lens especially if you were around the F2 aperture. Perhaps you can follow-up on this thread with some photos.Enjoy!I rented both,The IS / Size versus f2 was the decision. Found I used 2.8+ 90% of the time so...Not sure I quite follow what the conclusion is sorry.

Canon_Guy wrote:I think nothing is different in the shooting technique from any other lens.At least I am not doing anything different when I shoot with f/1.4 prime or f/4 zoom. It is the subject what determines how I set my camera not the lens.I'm not sure that's the case. If I'm shooting with a EF 100-400 with a TC it's a massive difference than a 100mm Macro.After only maybe an hrs use it's different.EF is slower than some other lenses we have so this will take some learning.Getting use to the closest focal distance at different focal lengths.I've noticed at f2 the Eye AF can get confused as I start to move obliquely to a face.

Ephemeris wrote:Canon_Guy wrote:I think nothing is different in the shooting technique from any other lens.At least I am not doing anything different when I shoot with f/1.4 prime or f/4 zoom. It is the subject what determines how I set my camera not the lens.I'm not sure that's the case. If I'm shooting with a EF 100-400 with a TC it's a massive difference than a 100mm Macro.After only maybe an hrs use it's different.EF is slower than some other lenses we have so this will take some learning.Getting use to the closest focal distance at different focal lengths.I've noticed at f2 the Eye AF can get confused as I start to move obliquely to a face.Well my reply was concerning the FL range and use you mentioned. So not 400mm and not macro. Just focal lengths of a standard zoom and usage for family shots and portraits.I use same AF settings for RF 24-105/4 as for 40/1.4 or 105/1.4. Same rules for the longest shutter speed which is determined by avoiding the motion blur rather than by FL.At f/2 you of course have to be aware of a small movements between focusing and taking the picture not to drift away from the focused distance. Continuous AF solves this pretty reliably.Overall I really do not use anything different if I shoot with the zoom @40/4 or the 40mm prime at f/1.4.

boldcolors wrote:Ephemeris wrote:Hi FolkLens finally arrived but haven't had chance to use it myself as I've been travelling.Loons quitea big tool.I will be at a 3 year old child's birthday party on Saturday where I will be camera man.I would appreciate any tips on settings to help me grab photos of this child and her friends party.For example tracking settings and any advice on the shallow effects of the F2 aperture.Thanks folks in advanceWow! Congratulations to a state-of-the art setup! That lens is unfortunately way out of reach for me but I do smile when some can enjoy it!Thank you that's very kind to say. It's been quite a big decision and as much as I like to compartmentalise the business this is such a chunk of money we will be more careful elsewhere. The energy costs in the UK are huge but I'm gambling that our usage will drop now as the weather warms a little.If you feel insecure about how to handle it and the camera I would recommend stopping it down on that party until you know how quick and unpredictable those little toddlers are. Don't shoot wide open just because you can.That's a very good point. I don't want to end up with a bunch of half in focus half out so I think I will maybe find some points to play around at F2 and the rest of light allows move to 2.8 or even a stop higher.It's at a private house so it won't have too many flat LED ceiling panels (I hope).

RLight wrote:Joe Reynolds wrote:>>Fv or Av and set aperture to f/2 and dial up as needed; keep in mind f/number vs number of subjects. Min shutter at 1/125 in custom menu.<<<

thunder storm wrote:RLight wrote:I understand. In sure I will come away with some one eye in focus and one eye outside the DOF.No, f/2 is fine for one person, just not 2 or more.My maximum is 2 with 40mm & f/1.4. With a little bit of practice you can always get 2 points in the plain of focus by moving yourself. With 3 points you're out of control.Just so I understand. Your moving to adjust the angle such that 2 points seperated (say a point on one person's eye and another person's eye) stay in focus?With 2 persons you can capture eye contact expressions. Worth it!That's a nifty idea.

>>>Will FV honor min shutter speed?Absolutely. It’s all I shoot. Used that setup last night in fact.<<